Photochef: James Callaway
My wife, Cate, and I spent 2024 abroad, mostly in Italy. I can see you all rolling your eyes: “When will he give this a rest?!” However, quite a few people have asked us, “How did you stay there for so long?” The answer is that Aussies can stay for a total of six months at a time, but then you must leave the country for three months before returning.
So, we left the Schengen Area for Albania for a lovely beach holiday, before zipping up to England for a gorgeous summer of strawberries, lush green hills and pet sitting. One of our favourite stays was in the heart of the Cotswolds in a picturesque village called Fairford, where for two glorious weeks, we were entrusted with the welfare of three much-loved chooks.
After chicken duties each morning, we would ramble along hedgerows, explore the meandering river’s edge and marvel at the much-lauded architecture, each cottage surpassing the previous one in charm and an overload of aesthetic appeal. Sometimes, we’d stop for a pub lunch, as you do, then make our way home for a well-earned snooze on the couch.
Despite the flowers blooming, the garden alive with growth and the warm air carrying bumblebees, butterflies and other industrious insects, the family’s Aga in the kitchen was constantly on the go. This prompted me to cook all manner of items on its heavy surface, inside its three ovens, and even proofing focaccia and buns in yet another of its many enamelled compartments. The expansive kitchen, with its sundry accoutrements, preparation machines and cooking paraphernalia, was an absolute delight and I ran riot for those two weeks.
The days rolled on until our hosts’ return was imminent. Assuming they’d be weary from the long drive back from Scotland’s moors, three young children and a dog, I decided a warm meal to come home to would be most welcome. I concocted a hearty chicken, leek and cheddar pie, some fresh tomato relish, and a buttered apple cake and custard for afters.
The pie seemed to corral all the elements that made our stay here so special and served as a thank you to our hosts. Cate was quick to point out in the accompanying card that the number of chickens, three, was the same as when they’d left. Or did they have four?
Ingredients
Method
Place the chicken thighs in a large pot and cover with water. Add a pinch of salt. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 20 minutes. Drain the stock into a clean bowl, then allow both the stock and the chicken to cool. You should have about 1 litre of useable stock.
Brush a casserole dish with melted butter, then add 2 cups of regular breadcrumbs to the dish and rotate it so the crumbs catch in the butter.
In a heavy pan, heat 100g butter to frothing. Add the onion and leek and sauté until they soften. Next, add the garlic and sauté for another two minutes, then add the bay leaves. Meanwhile, heat the milk and nutmeg in a small saucepan. Remove from heat and stir through the flour.
Now, start adding the heated milk to the onion pan, mixing thoroughly to avoid lumps. You should have a velvety liquid. Add 2 cups of the warm chicken stock and stir well.
Return this mixture to a low heat and continue to stir until it thickens considerably. Next, add the cooked chicken and half the cheddar, stirring to combine thoroughly.
Spoon the chicken mixture into the casserole dish evenly, leaving a 1-2cm gap from the top of the casserole dish lip. Allow mixture to set in the dish.
Next, put the potatoes in a pot of cold, salted water and bring to the boil. Simmer until they are cooked all the way through. Meanwhile, heat the milk and butter together.
Once the potatoes are cooked thoroughly, drain well. Let them steam dry in a colander. Now, return them to the pot and mash them until smooth. Add the butter and milk mixture, the remaining cheddar and half the parsley. Add seasoning, if required.
Preheat oven to 180˚C (fan-forced). Using a piping bag with a star nozzle (or just spoon it on and smooth it out evenly later on), pipe the potato mash in even lines over the chicken pie filling – I try to do a crisscross pattern. Scatter pie with the panko breadcrumbs, then bake in the oven for 30 minutes or until golden and bubbling around the edges. Top with remaining parsley and serve.
