Photography: Con Poulos | Photochef: James Callaway | Styling: Lucy Tweed
This month’s recipe tumbles from what might be called a hodgepodge, a mishmash or even a salmagundi. Why so? Well, when you take some slow-cooked lamb – a cornerstone of Greek or Turkish cooking – toss it through some Italian gnocchi before enriching it with a French sauce redolent with anchovy, you end up with a strikingly unique concoction.
I first served it at the cafe I owned 15 years ago. A local farmer sold me the odd lamb and, eager to use the whole animal, I braised it, shredded the meat and mixed it up into a rich, rosemary-scented gravy. We were also making potato gnocchi at the time for another dish on the menu, and because of the gnocchi’s ability to absorb flavours, I thought I’d mix the two; what could go wrong?
While these two components were simpatico, the dish needed an addition that detonated with flavour, and that was the anchoiade (a tasty mixture of butter, garlic, olive oil and anchovies). While in the pan, the gnocchi, lamb and gravy are enhanced and enriched further with blobs of cold butter. This is then taken up to ELEVEN (think This is Spinal Tap) with the anchoiade, culminating in a grab bag of unique flavours fit for any night of the month.
What is anchoiade?
Originating from the Provence region, anchoiade (pronounced: ‘on-shwoi-ahd’) is a flavourful French dipping sauce that is typically made with anchovies, garlic, vinegar and olive oil.
Ingredients
Method
One day ahead, blend the lemon, garlic, olive oil, paprikas, salt and pepper into a zesty paste in a food processor. Pour over the lamb shoulder and marinate overnight.
The next day, preheat the oven to 150°C. Sauté the carrots, onion, celery, garlic and bay leaves in oil until nicely coloured. Place the lamb, its marinade, wine and sautéed veg into a tight-fitting roasting tray. Cover securely with alfoil (you don’t want steam escaping) and cook for 3 hours. Once cooked, allow to rest until cool enough to handle.
To make the gnocchi (or use ready-made gnocchi), chop the potatoes evenly and bring to boil in salted water. Simmer until they are well cooked, then drain in a colander and allow to steam-dry. Mash with a potato masher, then put some dishwashing gloves on and break up any lumpy bits. Place the potato in a large bowl.
Meanwhile, bring a pot of salted water to boil. Add the flour and salt to the potato mixture; mix with gloved hands to form a dough – add more flour if too sticky. On a semolina-floured bench, shape the dough into a few long ‘ropes’ about 2cm in diameter. Cut the gnocchi into 2cm lengths. Cook them in the boiling water for 3 minutes or until they rise to the top. Scoop gnocchi out with a slotted spoon, drain well and scatter on a tray (don’t refresh in cold water).
To make the anchoiade, add a knob of the butter to a fry pan and allow to foam. Add the sage leaves and garlic. Cook until the leaves are lightly browned before adding the anchovies and ‘mooshing’ them up. Next, add the pepper and remaining butter; allow to melt before adding olive oil.
Now, gently remove the lamb bones and break the meat up before putting it in a hot pan with some of the liquid and the cooked vegetables. Add the gnocchi and a little more of the lamb liquid. Bring this to boil; season to taste. When the sauce has reduced and is coating the gnocchi, serve it individually or on a serving platter. Finally, toss the parsley into the anchoiade and spoon over the lamb gnocchi.
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