What to plant in November across Australia

Spring is typically the time to harvest, not plant, but that doesn’t mean planting is strictly off the cards in November. There are plenty of veggies and herbs, especially those from punnets, that you can pop into your patch this spring. Here are some of the best plants to consider, according to Australia’s different climate zones.

Temperate: Sydney, Perth, Adelaide, Central Coast

Sun-loving plants like chilli, tomato, zucchini and basil can all be planted, in punnets, at this time of year in temperate climate zones like Sydney, Perth, Adelaide and the Central Coast. Silverbeet and lettuce also do well.

Cool temperate: Melbourne, Canberra, Hobart, Launceston

Much like in temperate zones, chilli, tomato, zucchini and basil can also be planted in November in cooler climate zones like Melbourne, Canberra and Hobart.

Sub-tropical: Brisbane, Gold Coast, Sunshine Coast

Eggplant, capsicum, tomatoes, snake beans and lettuce can be planted in November in sub-tropical zones like Brisbane and the Sunshine Coast.

Tropical: Darwin, Cairns, Townsville, Exmouth

In tropical zones like Darwin and Cairns, capsicum, cucumber, chilli, sweet corn, melons and Asian greens can be planted in November. However, because it is the beginning of the wet season, it’s worth prioritising fast-growing plants like Asian greens.

Gardening tasks to tick off in November

Summer is right around the corner, which means now is the time to get your garden ready for the heat. Here are a few gardening tasks to tick off your list in November.

• Add mulch: Mulching ahead of summer is great for improving water retention, reducing weeds and maintaining insulation within the soil.
• Prune wilting flowers: Encourage new blooms for summer by pruning your roses.
• Remove any weeds: As always, get rid of any pesky weeds that pop up.
• Apply liquid feed to your veggie patch: Give your plants a boost ahead of the hot summer.

The post What to plant and what gardening tasks to get done in November appeared first on Homes To Love.

The David Beckham Rose blooms

Sir David celebrated his 50th on 2nd May this year with a week of festivities, culminating in a glamorous private birthday dinner. Guests such as Eva Longoria and Gordon Ramsay celebrated alongside him, Victoria and their three youngest children. David posted pictures of the evening on Instagram, with snaps of him snuggling his daughter at the formal dinner and busting out dad moves on the dance floor by her side.

Harper, who been recently venturing into the world of fashion alongside mum Victoria, looked elegant in classic Beckham style. And the youngest of the Beckham brood is showing she has tasteful style that extends beyond the sartorial.

“Such an incredible gift from my amazing daughter”

Wanting to find the perfect gift to celebrate her father’s half-century, Harper has certainly done her research. News of the present she settled on has just been released. A new breed of English shrub rose has been grown and named in his honour. “David’s daughter Harper wished to mark the occasion of his 50th birthday with something enduring and full of beauty,” says a press release from David Austin Roses. “Inspired by this touching family gesture, David Austin Roses chose to dedicate this new rose to Sir David Beckham. Harper’s wish has grown into a rose of remarkable character.”

David shared the news on his Instagram stories earlier today, saying this was “such an incredible gift from my amazing daughter”. The flower grown for the occasion is true to the classic and elegant style the Beckhams have become known for. The rose buds “open with a subtle flush of pink, revealing luminous white blooms tinged with soft blush and yellow. The semi-double flowers are gently cupped in form, and each reveals a striking starburst of golden stamens at its heart.”

David Austin roses are famously fragrant, with multiple delicate cupped petals and full of traditional English charm. They bloom in most Aussie moderate climates in the summer months. The perfume of the new Sir David Beckham rose will reportedly have “fresh green notes of banana, warm honeyed musk layered with hints of nougat, clove and myrrh.”

David Beckham in the garden

The Beckham family have recently been enjoying the spotlight again, this time with former Spice Girl and fashion icon Victoria the focus in her a docuseries on Netflix. It follows the 2023 four-party documentary series Beckham, which explored David Beckham’s early life, rise to fame, soccer career and current family life.

The Australian House & Garden team loved the glimpses into the Beckham country estate. The rambling grounds, vegetable patches and kitchen-garden was impressive but not surprising, with David being a passionate cook and gardener. We wonder if there’ll be a new addition to the garden this coming English summer, with the Sir David Beckham rose blooming on the grounds.

The Sir David Beckham rose will launch at RHS Chelsea Flower Show in May 2026. Each sale of the rose will see a £2.50 donation to The King’s Foundation, the charity for which David Beckham is an ambassador.

Harper Beckham evidently wins the daughter-of-the-year award for this incredibly sweet and thoughtful birthday present.

The post Harper Beckham’s heartwarming 50th birthday gift to dad David appeared first on Homes To Love.

Even outside her greenery, Anderson has long been attentive to the details in everything she does –  from her work in film to her recent collaboration with Flamingo Estate on family-recipe pickles. The Rules of the Garden were brought to life in a recent Sonsie Skin campaign, reflecting the same fastidious approach that defines her clean beauty line. And now, in the serenity of her backyard, she offers a set of guiding principles that invite anyone willing to participate, to see gardening as a practice in patience and observation.

Rule 1: No Hovering

Pamela insists that growth is not achieved through constant interference. “Give it what it needs and leave it be. Hovering never helped anything grow,” she reminds us.

Rule 2: Handle Everything with Love

Every interaction with the garden is an opportunity to impart care. “It remembers how you treat it,” Anderson notes, a gentle reminder of the reciprocity between gardener and earth.

Rule 3: Never Aim for Perfection

There is beauty in imperfection so, “let the mess become the magic,” she advises.

Rule 4: Tend Below the Surface

True work happens hidden from view, where roots twist and twine. Anderson urges attention to what lies beneath, where the foundation of growth is formed.

Rule 5: Stick to a Rhythm

Patience is a gardener’s most loyal companion. “Do not rush something that you want to last,” she observes.

Rule 6: Trust the Process

Let it evolve. “There is beauty in the becoming,” she encourages, celebrating the slow emergence of life.

Rule 7: Just Let it Be

“The differences are what make it beautiful,” Anderson concludes.

The post Pamela Anderson’s gardening guide is pure joy  appeared first on Homes To Love.

“I wanted my garden to be charming, enchanting, whimsical, kind of effortless, and to feel just natural. But on the other hand, I’m quite structured. I like borders and I like the lawn to start where the garden ends. So, I contradict myself, actually!”

Read More: Step inside Collette Dinnigan’s rambling Bowral homestead

Collette’s dear friend, the late Harriette Conway, helped carve out some order early on. “She was a garden designer,” says Collette. “She drew a plan so that, initially, when I wanted to plant roses, we had some structure to work from.”

On her friend’s advice and aided by gardeners, Collette removed an old gravel road that once ran past the house, along with a layer of clay, then aerated the earth. “We made a worm farm and added new topsoil – we really started from scratch.”

While making tasteful updates to her late-1800s weatherboard, Collette slowly transformed the entire grounds, replacing a tennis court with a pool and a wisteria-laden cabana. She converted a barn into a guesthouse, and a garage into a cottage for her daughter Estella. “Around her little cottage, I’ve put in stepped-down garden beds and planted English lavender and rosemary,” says Collette. The main house is wrapped with a wisteria-framed verandah. “It’s absolutely stunning in spring!” An outdoor pizza oven, an orchard and a vegetable garden complete the romantic scene.

While, sadly, Collette and Harriette never finished many of the plans they’d discussed before Harriette’s passing, her friend’s legacy lives on in the seasonal cycle of Collette’s flowerbeds.

“I wanted the garden to be flowering all year.” Harriette shared her knowledge so that the designer’s dream could come to life. “In February all the windmill daisies come up and suddenly the garden is all white,” says Collette. “There are so many different layers – she was excellent at that. I now know what flowers when.”

PLANT LIST

TREES

• Birch (Betula)
• Ornamental pear (Pyrus ussuriensis)
• Pencil pine (Cupressus sempervirens glauca)
• Plum tree (Prunus domestica)

SHRUBS

• English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)
• Roses (Rosa)
• Salvia (Salvia)

PERENNIALS

• Winter rose (Helleborus)
• Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla)
• Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota)

CLIMBERS

• Star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides)
• Wisteria (Wisteria floribunda)

These days, Collette’s garden is ever-changing, each season bringing different colours and varieties, many of which she loves to gather and display in vases indoors. “In winter, I’ll cut a huge bunch of rosemary and put it in the kitchen. When I have to prune the plum trees, I’ll keep some of the blossoms for the house in spring,” she says.

While June and early winter is quiet on the flower front, mid-winter sees an abundance of jonquils (Narcissus jonquilla) blooming, with winter roses (Helleborus) arriving in July. Tulips breakthrough in August, with daffodils, ranunculus and delphiniums flowering next.

The garden comes alive in spring. Foxgloves line the driveway with blossoming apple, plum and pear trees. Then October brings a burst of colourful poppies. “Over summer the house is filled with roses and hydrangeas,” says Collette, of her favourites. As autumn sets in, gardens are cut back and the cycle begins again.

“I try to plant for all seasons,” she says. “There’s so much to be said of harvesting seeds – you end up with the most beautiful, organic garden. For instance, on Anzac Day I plant poppies. I harvest all their seeds in November-December. I do the same with fennel, Queen Anne’s lace and catnip, and throw the seeds back into the garden at the beginning of autumn. In summer, every year now, it becomes so congested. But it is so beautiful.”

After dabbling in broccoli planting (Collette found invading caterpillars hard to vanquish with her regular stints away), she’s found success in herbs, celery, rocket, artichokes, leeks, spring onions and broad beans. Bringing “a touch of the Italian life”, basil and tomatoes thrive in summer.

On rotation on her kitchen-garden menu you’ll find celery juice, fennel tea (made from dried harvested seeds), broad bean bruschetta with goat’s cheese and thyme, pasta with passata made from harvested tomatoes, and a particular favourite, anchovy-sage leaf: “I dip it in rice flour and soda water and fry it, then put salt and saffron on top – it’s so delicious!”

Collette has created an enchanted, rambling wonderland. “Every time I leave I think, ‘This is so much work!’” she admits, as she often travels. “But each time I arrive I think, ‘This is home.’ It’s just so beautiful and extraordinary.”

Read More:

Collette Dinnigan: collettedinnigan.com

• Step inside Collette Dinnigan’s rambling Bowral homestead

• Tour 7 luxurious homes renovated and owned by Collette Dinnigan

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Space-saving solutions, such as leafy screening, statement pot plants and climbing vines, are all perfect for pushing the boundaries of even the smallest yard. All you need is a bit of imagination and these small garden design and landscaping ideas to transform a humble patch into an urban oasis.

How do you make a small garden nice?

Working with a small garden space can be tricky, but with the right approach, you can create a garden that feels like a private oasis, regardless of its size. Expert landscape designer Grant Boyle of Sydney-based Fig Landscapes shares his top tips on creating a beautiful small garden:

• Maximise green space by utilising vertical surfaces or hanging gardens.
• Mix different foliage textures and colours to create interest: try combining fine-leafed species with glossy plants, or succulents with grasses.
• One large potted plant will have more impact than lots of small ones.
• Built-in seating will maximise ground space.
• A strategically placed mirror will amplify greenery and give the illusion of more space.
• Think about how big the plants will be when fully grown: you don’t want to overwhelm the area.
• Try to provide a habitat for local wildlife – hardy natives such as Banksia ‘Birthday Candles’, grevillea and Callistemon (bottlebrush) are ideal.

Here, we explore 13 clever small garden design ideas informed by a number of landscaping and gardening experts in Australia, so you can transform your courtyard or patio into something special.

13 clever small garden design ideas

Screening plants

If you’re looking to make your garden a little more private, consider creating your own leafy screening. Dwarf magnolias, lilly pillies, elephant ears and palms are great for adding height to your garden and creating a lush extensive of your fence.

Bamboo is another favourite screening plant, but beware of which species you choose. Bambusa textilis ‘Gracilis’ (slender weavers bamboo) is a non-invasive, clumping variety, and a good pick according to landscape architect Sophie Greive from Think Outside Gardens.

“It grows 6-8m high and gives you maximum height and screening in tight spaces,” she says. “It also has a rapid growth rate – from 1m high to 6m in 18 months.”

Use the council verge

The owners of this striking new Perth residence wanted an equally eye-catching front garden, so they enlisted Tim Davies Landscaping to “add interest to a usually uninteresting council verge”.

Tim met the brief by creating densely planted ‘islands’ of garden flanking a cobblestone pathway to the front door. Arching over the path are two established trees – a Poinciana and a frangipani – creating a shady canopy at the entrance. Plants underneath include Agave attenuata, Senecio mandraliscae, Japanese box and Zamia furfuracea.

“It’s a mix of vibrant, hardy and striking foliage of varying textures, repeated in an informal way to make an inviting entry,” says Tim.

Create layers

The owners of this Federation home in Sydney’s inner west wanted a semi-formal front garden to complement the home’s pretty facade.

“Mainly, though, they wanted a lovely space to look at,” says landscape designer Julia Levitt of Sticks & Stones Landscape Design, so she planted a layered garden of “soft and gentle” plants with mixed foliage textures. The result is a quaint, privacy-giving garden befitting of a heritage home.

A plunge pool

Intentional planting, textural finishes and a space-saving plunge pool set the scene for a holiday at home in a contemporary coastal Sydney backyard.

Maximise natural light

The most important thing when designing a compact courtyard or small garden is to understand how the light works in the space, says garden designer Richard Unsworth of Garden Life.

“Consider the light at different times of year, as well as different times of day,” he says. “Select plants that thrive and adore those conditions.”

It’s also crucial to understand how the plant behaves over time: how big will it get? What are its water requirements?

“All plants can fail – they are living things. And that’s why it’s paramount to give them what they need and love.”

Mix and match

Layering plants of different heights and leaf sizes creates the illusion of space and imbues a sense of grandeur, as seen in this multi-levelled Melbourne front garden. The bluestone pathways are flanked by lovely layers of Portuguese laurel, English box, lamb’s ears, German iris and seaside daisies.

Plant groundcover

Anyone who has ever tended to a lawn will know just how water-intensive and time-consuming they can be. Instead of opting for turf, consider creating a natural carpet with native groundcover plants like native violet.

In this European-style courtyard garden in Melbourne, landscape designer Kate Seddon has “enhanced the sense of depth by layering the plants – mixing climbers, shrubs and lower ground covers“.

Create a leafy canopy

The journey from the dining area to the sitting zone of this inner-city terrace garden is through a lush side garden dappled with shadows.

A vertical canopy of leafy foliage adds drama to the side space that might otherwise have been simply a pathway, while also casting shadows and softening the heat of the sun.

Diamond climbers

In this garden, star jasmine is trained to climb up a grid of stainless-steel wires to soften the surrounding architectural features.

“It also makes the courtyard feel more enclosed,” says the designer, Jane Jones of Jane Jones Landscapes. The wall is painted Dulux Monument, to make the wall visually recede and the green foliage stand out.

Add statement pot plants

Add greenery to a porch or small paved courtyard by bringing in statement pot plants. On the verandah of this restored Victorian villa, two potted fan aloe plants (which are incredibly low-maintenance and hardy) sit on either side of the front door while tall hedging creates a privacy screen along the fence line.

Choose hardy shrubs

For many of us, growing a garden means being ready for some harsh Australian weather conditions. To ensure your garden thrives throughout the seasons, choose hardy shrubs to form the basis of your garden beds, such as Miss Muffet (Pittosporum) which is a robust evergreen shrub that has a naturally tufted shape, glossy green leaves and fragrant cream flowers in spring.

“This is a fabulous bedding plant for small gardens,” says Janine Mendel from Cultivart . “It looks good all year-round and can withstand sun or shade.”

Create a tropical garden

Incorporating tropical beauties in varying heights can help transform any small outdoor space into an immersive, jungle-like oasis. In the garden of landscaper John Crouch, a variety of palms tower above a flourishing garden bed full of clivias, bromeliads and philodendrons.

Miniature manicured garden

When short on space, clearly defined structure, geometric shapes, repetition and a largely evergreen planting palette can make a statement. Opting for stone or gravel over lawn can also create a visually appealing contrast against manicured hedges (and also save on water) as seen in this gorgeous front garden in Melbourne.

How do you arrange pot plants in a small garden?

Angela Thomas, a horticultural expert at Yates, shares her top tips for using pot plants to create an instant garden courtyard on a patio, or balcony:

• Choose the best-quality potting mix you can afford. You get what you pay for and a quality potting mix will help your plants grow better for longer.
• Potted plants lose moisture much more quickly than in-ground plants so monitor moisture levels regularly. If the top layer is dry and dusty, it’s time to water; if it feels moist and sticks to your finger, leave it a day or so. Self-watering pots are a great idea as plants will draw on the water supply as needed. Reduce the amount of moisture loss by applying a few centimetres of fine bark mulch.
• Well-fed plants look healthier, are more productive and are also better able to resist pests and diseases. You can either use liquid plant foods on a regular basis or controlled-release fertilisers that release nutrients slowly over time. Choose a method that best suits your gardening style.

What is the cheapest ground cover for a garden?

If you’re looking for an affordable and low-maintenance ground cover, your best options are gravel or wood chips. If you’d like to opt for something green that isn’t as high maintenance and water-intensive as lawn, consider planting Australian native groundcover plants such as native violet.

The post 13 small garden design ideas that maximise space and greenery appeared first on Homes To Love.

How to grow and care for cyclamen indoors

Indoor potted cyclamen plants have been bred from cyclamen persicum, which is a much smaller flower but also considerably more fragrant. While they have the potential to last for years, due to environmental factors and watering, they will often only last a few weeks at home.

They like living in light, airy places, so being in a dark spot on the coffee table quickly leads to problems. When deprived of light, new leaves are smaller and grow on longer stalks. Also, older leaves turn yellow, and the new flowers become pale. The ideal temperature for a cyclamen is about 10ºC, so it’s best to leave it in an unheated room as much as possible.

As cyclamen plants are highly susceptible to rot, it’s important they don’t sit in too much water. Unfortunately, plants are often potted with the tuber below the soil, making them impossible to water correctly. This allows rot to set in, especially in a stuffy room, so the plant collapses. The best way to water is to wait until the plant is almost dry, or starting to wilt, then stand the pot in water for 30 minutes or until the soil is soaked.

Avoid cutting dead flowers and leaves, but give them a sharp tug instead so they break off cleanly at the base. Any stumps left behind will rot, and this can spread. Every couple of weeks, apply a liquid fertiliser that’s high in potassium, such as a tomato feed, to aid flowering.

How to grow and care for cyclamen outdoors

Cyclamen are loved not only for their vibrant hues but also for their sweet fragrance. They are great value and do well as a compact flowering annual in pots and hanging planters. Unfortunately, unless you live in an elevated, cool southern region, it’s a bit optimistic to plant your nursery-bred cyclamen in flower beds.

They cope with light frost, but need the right conditions to thrive. Ideally, plant your outdoor cyclamen in a sheltered spot under deciduous trees for dappled shade in summer and sun in winter.

In temperate climates, potted cyclamen plants flower for months, from February right through winter. Just make sure you ‘twist and tug’ off all yellow leaves and dead flowers to keep the plants clean. Protect plants from heavy and continued rain, high humidity, and also foggy, cold conditions, which tend to ruin them.

With cyclamen care, the main enemy is botrytis (grey mould), which is caused by overcrowding and water at the base of the leaves, as well as rotting, yellow leaves and dead flowers. In crowded conditions this rot can spread through plants at great speed and kill them in just a few days.

How to propagate cyclamen

Cyclamen are grown from seed. So, to propagate cyclamen, you’ll need to soak the seeds in water for 24 hours before sowing. Once the plants have produced two leaves, they have a tiny tuber at the base. Position them in a cool spot with good light. The larger cyclamen varietals generally take longer to reach flowering size.

Like all cyclamen, the seeds tend to fall on the main plant and often germinate on top of the mature plants. Any seedlings growing this way are best carefully dug up and transplanted while small.

Dry tubers are available but don’t always sprout well, so it’s best to buy plants. The advantage of this is that you can see the colour of the leaves and flowers, and check its perfume.

TIP: To get plants in bloom for Mother’s Day, sow seeds between February (15 months before) and September.

What type of climate does cyclamen need to survive?

Cyclamen thrive in a cool, shady position, like beneath a mature tree, and tend to become dormant in the summer. Avoid placing cyclamen in full sun.

If you’re growing cyclamen indoors, keep in mind that the ideal temperature for a cyclamen is about 10ºC, so it’s best to leave them in an unheated room as much as possible.

How often should cyclamen be watered?

Cyclamen can be watered around once a week or so. As cyclamen plants are highly susceptible to rot, it’s important they don’t sit in too much water. The best way to water is to wait until the plant is almost dry, or starting to wilt, then stand the pot in water for 30 minutes or until the soil is soaked.

What type of soil should I use?

To prevent root rot, plant cyclamen in well-drained soil with compost and high-quality potting mix. You can apply a liquid fertiliser to potted cyclamen every couple of weeks to add flowering.

When will cyclamen bloom?

In temperate climates, potted cyclamen plants flower for months, from February right through winter.

Common mistakes to avoid when growing cyclamen

• Watering cyclamen with yellow leaves. This is a sign the cyclamen has become dormant, which tends to happen in summer.
• Buying potted cyclamen that are packed in plastic sleeves and/or have wet foliage – they are more likely to have rot.
• Not providing cyclamen with well-drained soil.
• Overwatering your cyclamen.
• Putting them in full sun.

What to do when your cyclamen leaves turn yellow

Cyclamen become dormant in summer. As the weather warms, flowering stops and the leaves turn yellow. This is a sign that the plant wants to rest, so it’s time to stop watering it.

To keep it dry, sit your plant on a windowsill or on a covered balcony. When the plant sends up new leaves, it’s time to start watering it again. Re-pot the plant, making sure the upper half of the tuber is above the surface of the potting mix.

That said, if your plant keeps flowering all summer, keep watering, feeding and enjoying it as usual.

What are the main types of cyclamen?

There are about 20 species of cyclamen, all of which are native to the Mediterranean area. Not all of the species are frost tolerant, but these three are tough, so they make excellent outdoor garden plants in Australia.

1. Cyclamen hederifolium

This is the easiest and best frost-tolerant cyclamen plant to grow. The tubers, which can reach 25cm across, send up masses of pink or white flowers on 8cm stems in autumn. When flowering finishes, the marbled green and silvery grey leaves appear and remain as an evergreen groundcover throughout winter.

Leaves collapse in frosty conditions and turn almost black, but they recover as they thaw. The plant is drought tolerant and, although it thrives in full sun, it also grows in dry, dense shade, though more slowly.

2. Cyclamen coum

Cyclamen are great planted in rock gardens, flowering when there’s not much colour elsewhere. They’re also excellent under deciduous shrubs, especially any that flower in winter such as viburnum and witch hazel.

The silver-leaved forms are striking contrasted with dark-leaved heucheras and black mondo grass. Take care not to dig them up or put a fork through them in summer when they’re dormant.

3. Cyclamen purpurascens

This is a less common plant, and its rather plain green leaves and deep pink flowers are not as attractive as the other two species. But the drawcard is the wonderful perfume of the flowers, which is stronger than in any other species.

Where and how to buy cyclamen

Cyclamen plants are readily available at your local garden centre. Visit during autumn and you’ll find scores for sale in every colour from white to deep purple and scarlet. Choose plants that have a few flowers open but lots of buds coming up through the leaves.

Another thing to look for is a plant with strong green or patterned foliage – avoid any cyclamen with yellow leaves. Also, try to buy plants that are planted so the top of the tuber is evident above the potting mix. This plant will be less prone to developing rot such as botrytis.

Take a sniff of the flowers when you make your selection. Some cyclamen are strongly perfumed, adding to their desirability. Flowers that are pink, purple or white tend to be fragrant, while the bold red-flowered varieties have less scent.

Never buy plants that have wet foliage or are packed in plastic sleeves. Rot may have set in and the plant is unlikely to survive. Likewise, cyclamen plants tend to go on sale in winter, but be wary that these discounted flowers may be too far gone.

The post How to grow and care for cyclamen appeared first on Homes To Love.

“The garden was beautiful but very organic in nature and unplanned,” recalls Brenda. “Many areas were overplanted and didn’t follow a particular plan or design. We were definitely not gardeners when we bought the property, but probably naively we just thought we would learn along the way.”

Thankfully, they happened to know someone to teach them: Brenda’s brother-in-law and landscape designer Michael Cooke. He helped bring structure and purpose to the grounds, creating a 10-year plan for the gardens that Brenda and Brett, 62, could continue to follow.

“Nobody moves to Mount Wilson if they don’t like gardens,” says Michael. “Brenda and Brett were looking forward to getting stuck into theirs as a retirement project and were keen to learn all about it. The inspirational images that Brenda showed me were of traditional, formal gardens, and they were happy to let me take the lead and design it as if it were my own.”

As part of the redesign, Michael kept many of the established trees, only removing some to allow in more light. Existing shrubs were pruned and shaped and in some cases relocated to more favourable positions, while a double row of variegated English box was replanted into curves and curls to form pathways and wrap around the trees.

“Under Michael’s guidance, we’ve established new garden beds and redesigned a number of the original beds using a ‘mass-planting’ approach, displaying particular plants to their finest,” adds Brenda.

With such a large area to work with, Michael divided the garden into a number of zones. There’s the Parkland, where established blue spruce trees are interspersed with the above-mentioned mass-planted beds of azaleas, May bush and rhododendrons.

The Parterre is an ornate area of Korean and English box hedging accessed by a laburnum covered arbour, while the Paisley Garden is named for the shape of its garden beds full of deciduous azaleas.

The Orchard is planted with apple, fig, pomegranate and plum trees, while 18 holm oaks form the Truffle Oak Grove, with truffle spore inoculated at their roots to produce Perigord black truffles. “Each July we harvest the truffles with the help of truffle dogs from Hartley Truffles,” says Brenda.

The Glades is made up of a gravel path that winds its way through azaleas, rhododendrons, hellebores, tree ferns and Japanese maples, while the Magnolia Grove is exactly as the name suggests, showcasing dozens of cultivars in their full glory. Finally, there’s The Nursery, where Brenda and Brett propagate and nurse rescued plants.

“Brenda likes to cut flowers for the house, so we also made large garden beds in open sunny areas to grow them,” says Michael.

The couple now spend their days in the garden, while Michael and a team from Verduous Gardens visit twice a year to make necessary tweaks and trim the large hedges.

“Brett loves the hard landscaping and the ‘projects’ – building steps, painting the house, creating new garden beds and tending to the nursery – while I enjoy the mowing, hedging, pruning and edging,” says Brenda. “We both share the weeding and mulching, but can’t say we love either!”

“We redesigned a number of the original beds using a ‘mass-planting’ approach, displaying particular plants to their finest.”

Brenda Ainsworth, owner

The reward for all their hard work is sharing the garden with friends and family. “My son, Ryan, and his wife, Lauren, were married here in 2021, and stayed with us again in 2022 for four months after their baby boy, Brody, was born. Being able to share the space and tranquillity of The Mount was really special,” says Brenda.

In fact, the couple’s three children – Ryan, Hannah and Liam – and their partners Lauren, Jonathan and Claire, are frequent guests. “When we bought the house in Cronulla, the kids visited, but not often,” says Brenda. “Now they come frequently and stay for weekends, relaxing and enjoying the ambience of a country home and garden.”

“We were definitely not gardeners when we bought the property, but probably naively we just thought we would learn along the way.”

Brenda Ainsworth, owner

The post A garden in the Blue Mountains thrives under the care of two beginners appeared first on Homes To Love.

Thankfully, he has a lot more than just paperwork to keep him busy. On any given day, Philip can be found putting the finishing touches on a new drop in the distillery, taking tour groups through the gardens or mixing up cocktails for his customers to replicate at home.

“I live on site, so it’s a short commute to work; a 30-metre trip,” he says. “I just need to be careful that I don’t fall over one of the visiting water monitors on my way to the still.”

Distillery Botanica was a natural progression for Philip after a successful 20-year career growing herbs for his wholesale nursery, Renaissance Herbs, which was based in nearby Warnervale. “The local council decided they wanted to build a shopping centre, and a big supermarket chain offered me a pot of gold for the land,” explains Philip. “I took that pot of gold and bought this property in Erina.”

That was in 2006. The site had previously been home to the much-loved Fragrant Garden, a nursery, garden, cafe and shop known for its potpourri and essential oils. “It seemed almost like an omen, because they used to sell my herbs here, and it was a popular spot for visitors to the Coast,” says Philip.

“For 10 years after I bought it, I’d still get people coming in looking for the Fragrant Garden.”

Faced with the question of what next, Philip briefly considered going into wine production, but the sheer volume of Australian wineries gave him pause for thought: “At the time, there were only 15 distilleries registered in Australia, as opposed to 2500 wineries – that’s the sort of statistic I like, and I became distillery number 16.”

With distillation still a relatively undiscovered art in Australia at the time, Philip taught himself the basics from books and YouTube tutorials before experimenting with a range of spirits made from Australian native ingredients. His first liqueur – an aniseed myrtle – was named herb liqueur of the year in Germany, while consecutive gins won medals at international competitions in London and San Francisco.

“Moore’s Dry Gin was the first Australian-made gin to win a gold medal in London,” Philip says proudly. “They drink a lot of liqueurs in Europe and the UK, so I thought, ‘I might be onto something here.’”

Indeed, while the Fragrant Garden’s reputation brought people to his door, Philip’s evolving offering of delicious gins, rums and other spirits, along with tastings, tours, workshops and classes, has kept them coming back for more. The gardens, renovated three years ago, are another drawcard.

In the hillside ‘gin garden’, Philip grows herbs, spices and aromatics to flavour his gins, while the ‘rum garden’ is filled with tropical plants and flowers in vibrant shades of orange, blue and purple. The rose garden also supplies the spirits and features a stunning Duchesse de Brabant rose, which is in flower 12 months of the year.

There is certainly plenty to do here at Distillery Botanica, and Philip is forever dreaming up new recipes – the latest being a triple sec made using Valencia oranges from a local orchard. “I find it all very stimulating,” says Philip.

“I was glad to sell the herb nursery because I’d been doing it for about 20 years and I was getting a bit bored. Going on 20 years here, and I’m not bored yet. There’s still a lot more that I can turn my mind to.”

The post A gin garden brimming with herbs and flowers destined for the bottle appeared first on Homes To Love.

Commonly used to cover up an ugly or old fence or provide privacy and shade, fast-growing climbing plants, such as star jasmine, passionfruit vines and ivy, are popular choices that can cover a lot of ground – fast.

Most climbing plants, including vines, ivy and other flowering varieties are very hardy and adaptable. They can be grown in a garden bed, or even in a narrow pot if you’re short on space or are working in a courtyard. Some vines are so adaptable that they can be grown without a trellis or supporting wires.

Others, however, require training and support in order for them to grow in a desired direction. Here we look at different climbers and how to train them to cover your fence, wall or whatever it is you want covered in lush greenery.

How to train climbing plants to cover your fence

1. Untangle tendrils

Is your climbing plant growing in a cluster? Many climbers and vines have tendrils that are used to hoist plants upwards and latch onto a support. Without a little assistance, these tendrils can become entwined and prevent the plant from growing outwards or upward. If this is the case, you’ll need to unwind shoots and try to separate and spread them in different directions to encourage lots of side shoots to grow. Directing them with small sticks or wires can help if you’re looking at covering a solid fence.

If you’re planting new climbers, you’ll want to make sure you remove any extra growth from the middle and guide the plant outwards rather than straight upwards using ties, twine or even pegs.

2. Provide support

The key to creating a lush and even spread of foliage is providing the right support for your climbing plant in the form of a trellis, stake or wire. Trellises provide a strong frame for your vines or other climbers to grow across a large wall or fence while stakes are a good place to start guiding new shoots.

3. Secure to fence

Train shoots horizontally, by loosely tying them to the fence or trellis as necessary. As the plants grow, keep tying the shoots to form an even and dense coverage. Once the plant is established and strong enough, it should continue to grow like this on its own.

What are twiners?

Twiners are climbing plants like wisteria, jasmine and even beans that like to wrap themselves around a post or each other as they grow. They need small sticks, stakes or fine mesh, like chain wire, to start their journey. So if you’re covering a Colorbond fence you’ll first need to install wires or lattice for them to grow onto. This gives you a chance to get creative and train climbers to grow in a pattern or design like the diamond shapes pictured below.

Self-clinging climbers

They may be clingy but self-clinging climbers are surprisingly low-maintenance. Plants like Boston ivy use sucker pads and aerial roots to secure themselves to almost any surface and are often used to cover a bare brick wall. Other self-clinging climbers include:

• Virgina creeper
• English ivy
• Climbing hydrangea
• Clematis
• Star jasmine
• Trumpet vine
• Wisteria

Beware though, these strong climbers will leave behind suckers or roots when removed.

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How to design a tropical garden

When it comes to designing a tropical garden, hiring a professional landscape designer is well worth the money — not only is the end result visually alluring but any potential problems can be addressed at the start. If you’re on a budget or you’re keen to DIY your tropical oasis, creating a five-star tropical garden is also achievable with the right approach. Here are some top tips and considerations to keep in mind:

• Colourful vistas, linear pathways and focal points create the structure of the garden and help link indoor rooms with outdoor spaces.
• Formal paths and straight garden beds contrast with the ‘jungle’ plantings, while luscious palms, colourful foliage, timber furniture, Balinese lanterns and brightly covered cushions complete the resort-style.
• First impressions count, so the garden entry is important. Playing with visitors’ perceptions is an art and it gives the garden a great sense of fun.
• As in life, the journey through our living environments should be as enjoyable as the final destination.
• Nothing says ‘tropical’ like palm trees and bamboo!
• The colour, size, shape and texture of a plant’s leaves are important.
• Compost and mulch are essential and replicate what occurs naturally on a rainforest floor.

How to lay out a tropical garden

For the most part, tropical gardens rely on lush foliage rather than flowers to create year-round visual appeal. Foliage should be flamboyant, lively and colourful, and plants must be chosen on the basis of the size, shape and texture of their leaves.

Planting in groups of odd numbers (three, five, seven and nine) is a common trick employed by garden designers — it gives a broad brushstroke of colour and texture and makes a huge difference to the feel of the garden.

Placing plants with contrasting foliage next to each other will create drama and interest. For maximum impact, position plants with red, yellow, orange, pink, purple and lime-green leaves next to each other.

Colourful flowers, such as fragrant frangipani, ornamental ginger, hibiscus, and dramatic canna lilies will warm up the garden and provide further contrast to the vibrant ground-dwelling foliage and green canopy.

What to plant in a tropical garden

A selection of perfectly placed palms and bamboo is perfect for achieving a tropical look in your backyard. Although they’re often criticised for growing too big or out of control, palms and bamboo will benefit the style and mood of the garden — they provide the rustle of foliage in the wind, furnish your garden with a fern-like ceiling and dense green walls, and do a great job of privacy screening.

There are a million varieties to choose from, so visit a specialist palm or bamboo nursery where you can seek expert advice. Remember that not all varieties are suited to every climate, and smaller-growing or dwarf specimens are the best choice for courtyards and pocket-sized gardens.

For shaded spots in the garden, consider planting murraya, peace lily, clivias or another shade-loving plant.

Edible tropical plants for your garden

If you love to cook, you can even try growing Asian herbs and spices in your tropical garden. Not only do they contribute wonderful flavours and aromas to a wide variety of dishes, they smell fantastic in the garden and help deter pests.

Cardamom, kaffir lime, lemongrass, coriander and mint will grow well among tropical shrubs in cool, moist spots.

Edible ginger (Zingiber officinale) planted in spring will be ready to harvest in March or April — you can simply plant a healthy-looking ginger rhizome from the supermarket. To harvest, you just dig up clumps with a spade.

How to prepare soil for a tropical garden

Gardening in tropical and subtropical areas requires a different approach to gardening in a temperate climate.

Tropical gardeners rarely have to dig down to plant, instead they layer the soil with compost, leaf mould, garden clippings and mulch.

Leaf mulch layering is a process that occurs naturally in forests and gullies, where soil fertility resides in just the top few inches.

How to maintain a tropical garden

In the tropics, the best time to garden is early morning, before the heat and humidity build up. Take a stroll around the garden each morning, pruning as you go, and finish at the shredder. All shredded pruning material should be composted and then returned to the garden to maintain the natural cycle.

But don’t expect a tropical garden to be maintenance-free. Anyone who gardens in a warm, high-rainfall climate knows that plants explode out of the ground during wet periods. They must be pruned into submission or they’ll take over. (The upside is that many rampant growers can easily be propagated from cuttings or grown from seed.) The need for constant housekeeping means a good pair of secateurs is essential — use them to regularly tidy up any brown foliage, dead palm fronds and spent flowers.

You should also be sure to feed your garden with a mulch of organic manure each spring and spray all the foliage with a seaweed solution once every season to keep the plants robust and strong. In tropical gardens, it’s best to keep the lawn area small — time spent mowing and weeding the lawn is wasted time!

Bright-leafed bromeliads will constantly surprise you with their hardiness and vigour. They flower only once but will continue to grow, sprouting new plants, or ‘pups’, from the side. When a pup reaches about 10cm, cut it away with a sharp knife, then replant it in pine bark, not soil.

Alternatively, leave the plant to clump naturally. Bromeliads don’t have to be planted in the garden, they are just as happy attached to tree trunks or in pots.

Most ornamental gingers die down in winter, and you should remove all the shaggy, dying foliage. When the weather warms up, feed them with aged manure as soon as the new foliage appears. Remember, ginger need regular watering during their growing season.

The best tropical plants that thrive in Australian gardens

In addition to the plants mentioned, the following varieties will also help you achieve a resort-style look:

• Hawaiian hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis)

• Vireya rhododendron (Vireya cultivars)

• Crab’s claw (Heliconia angusta cultivars)

• Fijian fire plant (Acalypha wilkesiana)

• Giant elephant’s ears/giant taro (Alocasia macrorrhiza)

• Elephant’s ears (Alocasia amazonica)

• Prayer plant (Maranta leuconeura ‘Kerchoviana’)

• Zebra plant (Calathea zebrina)

• Abyssinian banana (Ensete ventricosum)

• Crotons (Codiaeum variegatum)

• Dancing ladies (Oncidium varicosum)

• Canna lilies (Canna ‘Tropicanna’ and Canna ‘Tricolour’)

• New Guinea impatiens (Impatiens)

• Sago palm (Cycas revoluta)

• Spiral ginger (Costus barbatus)

• Crinum lily (Crinum pedunculatum)

• Sacred Bali bamboo (Schizostachyum brachycladum)

• Variegated shell ginger (Alpinia zerumbet ‘Variegata’)

• Spindle palm (Hyophorbe verschaffeltii)

• Majestic palm (Ravenea rivularis)

• Medinilla (Medinilla magnifica)

The post How to create a lush tropical garden in your very own backyard appeared first on Homes To Love.

Different types of Japanese gardens

• Karesansui – a dry rock garden
• Chaniwa/Roji – a tea garden
• Chisen-shoyū-teien – a pond garden
• Kaiyusjiki-teien – a promenade garden
  

Our favourite Japanese-inspired gardens

A semi-formal front garden

Sydney

A potted Japanese maple placed on sleek gravel brings a sense of serenity to this elegant garden in Sydney’s North Shore. Landscape designer Raoul van de Laak of Good Manors says the climbing vines and contrasting Japanese maple create an “elegant conversation piece.”

A zen courtyard in a granite-heavy home

Melbourne

In an ultra-modern residence defined by three types of granite, the spherically pruned greenery and delicate foliage found in the Japanese-style courtyard brings a sense of lightness to the grey-toned backdrop.

A wispy wonderland

Melbourne

While this inner-city garden retains the structure of a traditional backyard, elements like the Japanese wisteria give it a sense of otherworldly calm. Landscape designers Rick Eckersley, Scott Leung and Myles Broad focused on abundant, layered foliage rather than showy floral displays to create a timeless look. “Subtlety is what makes it so beautiful,” says Scott.

A wabi-sabi sanctuary

Sydney

Elements of natural stone covered in soft moss are framed by lush green foliage in this Japanese-inspired garden in Longueville, Sydney. Rough-cut Sydney sandstone is framed by a Japanese maple and lush bamboo.

A wellness retreat

Geelong

This Japanese-influenced garden features a serene water feature along with an array of Japanese maple tree species. Natural stone materials add an easy-going effect. “It’s not intended as an authentic, traditional Japanese garden,” says garden designer Christian Jenkins. “It’s my own interpretation, an impression.”

A meeting of East and West

Lennox Head

A striking coastal retreat in Lennox Head, this tranquil garden incorporates elements of Japanese design, like natural stone and traditionally preserved timber, that have been translated for a classic Australian backyard.

A low-maintenance sanctuary

Melbourne

This Zen-like courtyard in Melbourne includes low, gentle plants and organic lines, along with neat gravel and a featured birdbath. ‘Not your standard Melbourne garden’ was the challenging brief for this striking Melbourne hideaway — which is a vision of soft, textured grasses without any mowable lawn.

What are the main features of Japanese gardens?

The main features of a Japanese garden include asymmetry to mimic the natural curves and lack of strict geometry in nature, as well as symbolism. A simple rock could represent a towering hill or mountain, while raked gravel could emulate the mesmerising curvature of an ocean wave.

A mindful connection to nature is key in Japanese gardens; they celebrate the inevitable waxing and waning of seasons, which brings out a different kind of beauty with each distinct period.

Ageing, damage, and distortion are considered markers of love and the passage of time, embracing the natural cycle of birth, growth, death and decay. Objects are preserved in their natural state, and much of Japanese garden design revolves around this worldview, also known as wabi-sabi.

Serenity and balance are achieved through the use of natural materials like stones, water and of course, plants, with their positioning in the garden often mirroring their natural places of habitat.

What are the 3 essential elements of a Japanese garden?

• Stone: A symbol of eternity and longevity that grounds the landscape and represents the rolling hills and mountains of Japan. Stone is arguably the most ubiquitous material used in Japanese gardens.
• Water: A fundamental element of the earth, water symbolises renewal, tranquillity and repose. It is most often represented in Japanese gardens as a pond or waterfall.
• Plants: Popular plant varieties used are moss, ornamental pines, bonsai plants, and bamboo for a lush, shady effect. For a splash of autumnal colour, consider Japanese maples or gingko trees.
  

How can I design a Japanese garden in an Australian backyard?

“Instead of replicating, we prefer to borrow principles and ideas used in traditional Japanese gardens and apply these to our small space and courtyard designs,” says Luke Baldwin, landscape architect and founder of Formed Gardens. “Ultimately, it’s about creating a visually beautiful, inviting space that draws you out and into the garden.”

The most obvious challenge for Japanese plants can be the hot, dry Australian summers, but native species can often be substituted in.

“We use elements like ponds or water features for the atmosphere and timber and stone benches to sit and reflect,” says Luke. “Small trees provide scale and shelter. These basic ideas really translate to any style and make for an inviting and successful small garden or courtyard.”

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There are so many different varieties of pumpkin grown all over Australia, but you’ll only see a small portion of these represented on supermarket shelves. Whether you’re looking to grow your own or pick up a popular variety from the supermarket, there are usually options year-round. Here are five of the most common pumpkin varieties available in Australia, how to grow them, plus tips on how to use each variety in everything from salads, to scones and more!

For more pumpkin facts, check out our guide to prepping, cooking and storing in-season pumpkins.

If you want to transform pumpkin from a side-kick into a main meal, try these recipes:

• How to make butternut pumpkin fruitcake
• How to make pumpkin scones

Pumpkin recipes

How many types of pumpkin are there in Australia?

There are several different types of pumpkin available in Australia, from your classic butternut and Kent to heirloom varieties such as Jarrahdale and Queensland blue. We’ve outlined the most popular types of pumpkin below.

What are the best types of pumpkin for roasting in Australia?

Butternut pumpkin (called butternut squash in the US) tends to be the top choice when it comes to roasting. Butternut pumpkin has dense, slightly sweet flesh and is by far one of the most versatile varieties in the kitchen. Kent pumpkin is also delicious when roasted.

The 5 most common pumpkin varieties in Australia

Golden Nugget pumpkin

This pumpkin variety is probably the best bet for a small yard or balcony garden: unlike its cousins, it is small fruiting and compact, making it perfect for a large tub. Particularly delicious when roasted, these pumpkins are also great for stuffing or turning into soup. The golden nugget pumpkin has very tough skin, so it’s recommended to roast it whole to avoid chopping injuries (and a frustrated chef!), then peel once the flesh and skin has softened.

Kent pumpkin

The Kent pumpkin, sometimes called a Jap pumpkin, is a popular type of pumpkin in Australia. This delicious member of the pumpkin family has been described as the ‘foodie’s pumpkin’ and for good reason: it has wonderful flavour and is very versatile. It has ribbed, grey-green mottled skin and is best suited to grow in warm or tropical climates.

When cooking a Kent pumpkin, you can peel or leave the skin on, as it softens and caramelises when roasted. This pumpkin type is also soft enough for baking and mash, but holds its shape well enough to be perfect for salads and curries.

Queensland blue pumpkin

Flying the flag for Australia, the Queensland blue pumpkin is a native variety that has become popular throughout the world. Besides its characteristic blue-grey and deeply ribbed skin, it’s perhaps best known for its amazing keeping time – 100 to 140 days. In the kitchen, Queensland blue pumpkins are a great all-rounder, and can be used for roasting, mashing, soups, stews and baking. It’s also excellent for preserving or making pumpkin flour.

Turk’s Turban pumpkin

This interesting-looking specimen is an heirloom variety grown more for aesthetics than dinner table glory, but still it is great roasted or made into soup. While the skin is edible, it’s quite tough and can be hard to peel.

Butternut pumpkin

Butternut pumpkin is one of the best-known pumpkin varieties for its shape, quick growing time and versatility. It marries well with strong flavours such as blue cheese or spices like cumin, and grows well all across most of Australia. Butternut pumpkin is also great for sweet dishes such as pumpkin fruitcake and pumpkin pie.

What are the benefits of eating pumpkin?

As well as tasting great, pumpkins are highly nutritious — they’re packed with proteins, good carbohydrates, carotenoids, antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals. According to a medically reviewed article published on WebMD, the benefits of including pumpkin in your diet are huge; it’s great for your skin, is high in fibre, can improve both eye, gut and heart health, and supports your immune system.

When are pumpkins in season in Australia?

Thanks to their long shelf life, pumpkins are available year-round in Australia, making them a versatile vegetable for both summer and winter dishes. If you’re growing pumpkins at home, they are typically planted in December and harvested in autumn, between March and May.

The post 5 of the most common Australian pumpkin varieties — and their benefits appeared first on Homes To Love.

What is companion planting?

Some plants help each other grow and thrive. They can do this for numerous different reasons.

• Larger plants can provide protection from the harsh elements to smaller plants.
• Some plants are good companions because their roots are different lengths and therefore don’t compete for nutrients or water.
• Lavender, rosemary, mint, and pelargonium are examples of plants that emit masking chemicals, which can confuse and deter insects.
• Plants such as wormwood, tansy, and pyrethrum daisy taste bitter or are toxic to pests and can be used as a natural pest deterrent.
• There are even plants that produce chemicals in their roots that act as growth stimulant for the companion.

What vegetables are best planted next to each other?

• Sage with cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, or rosemary
• Capsicum or chilli with tomatoes, onion, or carrots
• Eggplant with beans or spinach
• Lavender with avocado
• Beets with beans
• Cucumber with borage
• Beans with corn
• Peas with lettuce
• Garlic with roses (garlic is a great deterrent of aphids!)
• Nasturtium with kale, cabbage, zucchini, or broccoli
• Marigolds with numerous vegie varieties, including tomato
• Mint with cabbage or tomato
• Tomato with basil, asparagus, carrot, cauliflower, chives, dill, marjoram, mint, onion, or parsley

What vegetables should you not plant next to each other?

As a general rule of thumb, you should avoid planting vegetables, herbs or flowers that have a similar root system or are susceptible to similar pests and disease next to one another. Examples of things you should not plant next to each other include:

• Carrots, beetroot and potatoes
• Tomatoes and potatoes or corn
• Asparagus and onions
• Beans and onions

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Beyond their practicality, hedging plants add an aesthetic dimension to properties, providing structure, colour, and texture to gardens. Native species such as Lilly Pilly can even attract local wildlife, enhancing biodiversity.

Of course not all hedge plants were created equal, so it’s wise to spend some time choosing the best species for your project. Consider the height you want, what suits your climate, growth rate, and attributes such as flowers, fruit, density, foliage colour and hardiness.

What is the fastest-growing hedge plant?

The quickest-growing hedge plant in Australia can vary depending on factors such as location, climate, soil type, and care provided. However, some popular fast-growing hedge plants in Australia include:

• Lilly Pilly (Syzygium spp.)
• Viburnum (Viburnum spp.)
• Bamboo

To help you create a thriving hedge in your own garden, horticulturalist Helen Young shares which species she considers to be the best plants for hedges and borders in Australia.

5 of the best plants for creating a hedge in Australia

1. Japanese box

Box is the classic formal hedge plant and for most parts of Australia, Japanese box is the best variety. It has glossy, green foliage with lime-green new growth and a moderate growth rate. In cold areas, use English box (Buxus sempervirens), which is darker, matt green and slower growing. Use box for short hedges up to 1m tall or in parterre designs. ‘Faulkner’ is an excellent compact variety of Japanese box. Plant three or four per metre.

Sun/shade: Full sun/part shade
When to plant: Autumn
How fast it grows: 15cm per year (grow up to 1m)

2. Sasanqua camellia

Autumn-flowering sasanqua camellias have plenty to offer. The large, abundant blooms are available in every shade of pink, plus white and red, set against lustrous dark green foliage. Their naturally upright growth makes them ideal for hedges from 1.5m to 5m tall; use a dwarf variety for small hedges. They’re not a fast-growing hedge but are low maintenance as a result. They like rich, slightly acidic soil and sun to part shade.

Sun/shade: Full sun/part shade
When to plant: Autumn/winter
How fast it grows: 25-30cm per year

3. Sweet viburnum

Sweet viburnum is much loved for its lush, large, bright-green leaves and super-speedy growth. But be warned, you’ll need to clip it constantly in summer to keep it neat. A vigorous grower, it’s best for 3-4m tall hedges. Look for the more compact form ‘Dense Fence’ or try Viburnum suspensum, which is a smaller variety.

Sun/shade: Full sun/part shade
When to plant: Anytime
How fast it grows: 1m per year

4. Cascade lilly pilly

There are dozens of different lilly pillies but many are prone to pest problems. My pick is ‘Cascade’, not just for its robust performance and fast growth, but for its fat, pink powderpuff flowers in summer, its flushes of pink to crimson new growth and its masses of crimson berry fruit, which is suitable for jams and jellies. It has a gently weeping style of growing – lovely for an informal hedge or shaped into a topiary ball – and reaches about 3m tall in sun or part shade.

5. Murraya

Sometimes called orange jessamine, murraya has become one of our most popular hedges for all the right reasons. The glossy green leaves are small and dense, with perfumed white flowers as a bonus. Murraya grows quickly, in sun or part shade and in most soils, and resists most pests and diseases. Old hedges can be rejuvenated by hard pruning if needed. It’s suitable for hedges from 1.5 to 4m tall.

Sun/shade: Full sun/part shade
When to plant: Autumn
How fast it grows: 60cm per year

How do you plant and grow a hedge?

To create a healthy and happy hedge that is bushy and dense, follow these top tips:

The post The best plants for creating a lush and leafy hedge appeared first on Homes To Love.

The best pink flowers suited to Australian gardens

Cyclamen

Cyclamen persicum

The flowers of cyclamen are dormant throughout summer but come alive and show their true colours in autumn. Cyclamen grow well indoors or out.

Sun/Shade: Partial shade and indirect sunlight

When to plant: Autumn

How fast it grows: Blooms 12-18 months after planting

Peonies

Paeonia

Peonies delight in the garden or vase from bud to glorious blousy pink flower. Enjoy a bunch or pop single blooms in a bud vase. Herbaceous peonies grow in cool climates and are dormant over winter. They flower in spring and early summer.

Sun/Shade: Full sun

When to plant: Autumn

How fast it grows: Often flower within their first year

Roses

Rosa

Whether you grow roses in the garden or buy a bunch to create a gorgeous flower arrangement, their beautiful fragrance and stunning blooms are sure to bring you delight. While roses come in all sorts of colours, from white to yellow to red, the shades of pink are the most popular. Roses bloom from spring to autumn with cut flowers available year-round.

Sun/Shade: Full sun

When to plant: Winter if bare-rooted, spring or autumn if potted

How fast it grows: 3-4 years to reach full maturity but may flower within their first year, depending on variety

Cherry blossom

Cerasus serrulata

Japan is renowned for its cherry blossom, which is in peak bloom in early to mid-spring before the leaves emerge. Flowering forms, like their fruiting relatives, like to be grown in a sunny, open situation with shelter from hot winds and planted in well-drained soil.

Sun/Shade: Full sun to partial shade

When to plant: Late winter to early spring

How fast it grows: 0.6 to 1.2 metres per year, usually bloom 5 to 7 years after planting

Dahlia

This is a perfect pink dahlia flower. Dahlias are planted in spring to flower in gardens from summer to autumn. Cut flowers are available from spring until autumn.

Sun/Shade: Full sun to partial shade

When to plant: Spring

How fast it grows: Fast-growing, shooting in about 2 to 4 weeks from tubers

Protea

Often mistaken for an Australian native, proteas are native to South Africa and flower in Australia in spring. They need a cool to temperate climate, full sun and well-drained soil. Proteas are long-lasting cut flowers. Two of the most popular pink proteas are the large king protea and ‘Pink Ice’.

Sun/Shade: Full sun

When to plant: Autumn or spring

How fast it grows: The growth rate depends upon the variety, but at maturity will be 1.5 to 2.5 metres tall

Camellia

Camellia flowers can range from white to dusty pink to red or a combination of all three. There are two main camellia species grown in gardens and many hybrids. These are Camellia sasanqua (usually just called sasanqua) and Camellia japonica (pictured).

Sun/Shade: Full shade or partial shade

When to plant: Autumn or spring

How fast it grows: Camellias grow at a rate of about 25 to 30 centimetres per year

Fuschia

Is this a pair of ornate earrings or ballerinas in full flight? While they really resemble either, they are actually the hanging flowers of a hybrid fuchsia. Great in pots or hanging baskets, fuchsias flower from spring to autumn in a cold to cool temperate garden in a spot with afternoon shade. They are deciduous in winter.

Sun/Shade: Partial shade

When to plant: Spring, after the frost

How fast it grows: Fuchsia grow at a rate of about 30 to 60 centimetres per year

Carnation

Dianthus caryophyllus

Carnations come in a myriad of pink colours and shades from pale to rosy pink and come adorned with a delicate fringe to the edge of their petals. Carnations grow in a sunny spot in the garden and cut flowers are available throughout the year.

Sun/Shade: Full sun

When to plant: Late winter to early spring

How fast it grows: Takes approximately 180 to 200 days to flower from seed

Chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemums are known for their almost-perfect shape, with pink petals arranged around a yellow centre. Chrysanthemums grow from spring to late autumn and die down over winter. They flower in autumn.

Sun/Shade: Late summer to autumn

When to plant: Late winter to early spring

How fast it grows: Can reach up to 1 metre by their second year

The post 10 pretty pink flowers to grow in your garden appeared first on Homes To Love.

Hardy, drought-resistant, and stunningly sculptural, Australian native garden designs are often filled with a harmonious spectrum of native foliage. Did you know that there are over 800 different species of Wattle alone, and some 700 Eucalyptus? Native gardens can attract fauna back into your garden and build thriving ecosystems.

To help you pick the best native Australian plants for your specific area, there are specialist nurseries dotted across the country. One of those is Harvest Seeds & Native Plants in Terrey Hills in NSW, which is run by passional native plant lover, Marina Grassecker.

“Native plants in your garden allows insects and animals to live in comfort, as you are also providing food and habitat for them as well as yourself. They need areas where the plants and native grasses can go wild,” says Marina. And in turn, “protecting and nurturing wildlife will protect us by ensuring pollination of plants and a healthy environment.”

Native Australian gardens to inspire

A robust coastal garden by William Dangar

An exquisite variety of robust, rugged plantings come together in this Mollymook garden. Natives, such as coast banksias (Banksia integrifolia), tuckeroo trees (Cupaniopsis anacardioides) and Lomandra longifolia grasses brush branches and fronds with tropical kentia palms, cycads and birds of paradise, together with the subtropical aloe trees that set the tone at the entry. 

A striking seaside garden

Blurring the borders between sea, sky and earth, this seaside garden delivers intimate, meditative spaces along with a sense of affinity with the limitless. It was planted with fabulous cacti and succulents, such as wheel cactus and candelabra spurge (Euphorbia ammak), as well as agaves and aloes, underplanted with natives casuarina (Casuarina glauca) and coastal rosemary (Westringia ‘Jervis Gem’).

A native garden with smart architectural landscaping

A landscape designer’s use of curves and native plantings shapes a family retreat, featuring Kurrajong, Sydney red gum, mat rush, gymea lily, and kidney weed.

A native garden on the Central Coast

Making the switch from exotics to natives completely transformed this NSW Central Coast garden and both the owners and local wildlife are reaping the rewards. “They wanted a native garden with a pond, to invite birdlife,” says designer James. “A native garden was also the perfect solution to a sandy site with a lot of sun.”

Edwina Bartholomew’s farm garden

This garden in the Blue Mountains has to fend for itself most days while enduring blistering summers and frosty winters, so the couple sought advice about hardy, low-maintenance plants from native landscaping experts Wariapendi Nursery in the Southern Highlands.

A Mornington Peninsula garden

Walls of stacked stone surround the sunken sitting area beside the lake of this Mornington Peninsula garden. Fiona Brockhoff incorporated Tussocks and Banksia spinulosa ‘Birthday Candles’ soften the edge of the retaining wall.

A biodiverse English-meets-Australian garden

The panoramic vistas from this hilltop home on Sydney’s Northern Beaches are matched only by its glorious, true-blue garden. Finches and wrens now find refuge among swathes of native grasses, paper daisies and bluebells, and birdsong is a sweet accompaniment on garden walks.

Part country, part coastal

Part country, part coastal, this expansive garden on Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula uses beds of native plants. Native shrubs are pruned lightly into rounded forms. Despite the garden’s rich diversity, the overall effect is one of cohesion and congruity.

A large and brimming lake garden

During the build, owner Imogen Tutton studied horticulture — she has a background in law and advertising — and so before they did anything she came every day and started laying out the garden. “I was on quite a native garden mission and I had this beautiful canvas to do it on, so it was my shovel, my mower, and my dog and me, bit by bit.”

A Great Ocean Road getaway

The fabulous planting scheme for this home on Victoria’s Surf Coast is entirely indigenous, which was a requirement of the local council. At their first meeting, the owners presented architect Fiona Dunin with their mood board: a jar of golden sand, a rock and photos of the home’s spectacular location.

A sustainable Perth garden

This native bushland Perth garden is a model of sustainability – looking after the environment and the wellbeing of the whole family. The 1.6ha property on Perth’s outskirts has 0.8ha of natural bushland, the rest has been developed into a model of sustainability and self-sustenance with aquaponics, vegetable gardens, a diverse orchard, beehives, worm farm, chickens, ducks, pigs and rabbits. There’s no town water here, so rainwater tanks and a bore provide water to the site.

A landscape designer’s water-wise garden

Studying native plants and garden design led Kathleen Murphy to create a water-wise oasis at her home where clients can see her work firsthand. Her stunning garden with panoramic views of the Macedon Ranges features a variety of Australian native plants and a contemporary take on the latest in garden ideas and plantings.

A rundown beach shack and gardens

The faded timber of the beach house combined with the silvery greens of the native garden, planted by Kate’s husband Mal who is a landscape designer, gives the exterior a beautiful, rustic air.

A beachside home’s coastal garden

Indigenous plantings and a coastal aesthetic help blur the boundaries between a new garden and its beachside location.  The plants, loosely arranged in gravel the colour of shell grit, look like they’ve come straight from the dunes.

A bushland retreat

Melbourne landscape designer, Sam Cox has shaped his bushland garden to replicate a slice of nature. “The masses of planting, mounding and boulders are balanced with the voids of pathways, ponds and pools,” says Sam. The paths are made from Castlemaine slate.

The post 15 native Australian garden design ideas to inspire appeared first on Homes To Love.

Despite their rapid growth, it’s crucial to select climbing plants carefully, considering their maintenance requirements and potential for causing damage. For example, while bougainvillea boasts striking beauty, its stems have sharp thorns. Similarly, passionfruit vines, though known for their beautiful flowers, can overrun gardens if left unchecked.

What is the easiest climbing plant to grow?

There are plenty of climbing plants that are easy to grow – the best one for you will depend on your growing conditions. In Australia, there are a few climbing plants that are generally easy to grow across the country, including bougainvillea, wisteria, jasmine, passionflower (Passiflora) and Boston ivy. We’ve outlined details of where and when to grow these below.

What are the best shade-loving climbing plants?

Star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) is the best choice for shady fences. Other shade-loving creepers are climbing hydrangea (Hydrangea petiolaris), creeping fig and ivy. When planting a climber, it’s important to consider how much sun or shade they will receive. Sun-loving climbers in shady spots will bolt to the top in search of the sun and can leave your fence looking bare.

What are the best sun-loving climbing plants?

If you’re looking to cover a fence that gets full sun for most of the day, you’ll need a climber that can withstand the harsh rays and heat. Some popular sun-loving climbing plants include bougainvillea, passionfruit flower, common jasmine, Dipladenia (Mandevilla Boliviensis), and orange trumpet creeper (Pyrostegia venusta).

What climbing plant grows the fastest?

Crimson glory vines (Vitis coignetiae) are an excellent option for times when you need an extremely fast-growing creeper or climber to hide a wall or other eyesore in the garden. Another fast-growing alternative is the Bower of Beauty vine (Pandorea jasminoides) which has trumpet-shaped blooms, commonly available in pink flowers with a crimson throat.

What is the best-scented climbing plant?

For perfumed climbing plants, consider lemon-scented jasmine (Jasminum azoricum) or climbing bauhinia (Bauhinia corymbosa). Both are perfect for warm areas, but beware, they are not frost-tolerant. To clothe an outdoor pavilion or pagoda, try chocolate-scented Akebia quinata, fragrant white bridal wreath (Stephanotis) or yellow Carolina jasmine (Gelsemium sempervirens).

What is the fastest growing Australian native climber?

One of the fastest-growing native climbers in Australia is the Hardenbergia violacea, commonly known as “Happy Wanderer” or “Purple Coral Pea.” This native Australian plant is known for its vigorous growth habit and ability to quickly cover fences, trellises, and other supports.

The top 8 fast-growing climbing plants in Australia

1. Chinese Star Jasmine

Star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) is a heavily fragrant climbing plant that bears delicate white flowers. Jasmine plants can be weedy; keep them under control with ruthless pruning. As the flowers fade, trim over the plant to remove the spent flowers.

Best for: Covering walls and pergolas, or as a flowering groundcover
Sun/shade: Full sun
When to plant: Spring
How fast it grows: 30 – 90cm per year

2. Bougainvillea

Bougainvillea is a hardy, sun-loving, fast-growing scrambling climber that will provide a pretty pop of colour against a back fence or garden shed. Bougainvilleas come in a range of colours — orange, pink, purple, red, yellow, and white — and sizes, from dwarf to rampant, so make sure to check at the nursery which one you’re selecting.

Best for: Along fences or in pots
Sun/shade: Full sun
When to plant: Spring
How fast it grows: Up to 2m per year

3. Boston ivy

Boston ivy (Parthenocissus tricuspidata), also called Japanese Ivy, is a voluptuous, deciduous climber that will grow freely to camouflage a shed, garage or tank. It doesn’t require a trellis and can cover bare courtyard fences or garden walls turning your backyard into a gorgeous green oasis. Turning a bright reddish-purple colour in autumn, it’s technically part of the grape family so tends not to be as invasive as other ivy varieties.

According to garden designer Scott Leung, the beauty of Boston ivy is the fact that that it “holds its foliage from the ground up”, producing continuous greenery without a woody base section. Virginia creeper is another option with a similar effect, says Scott.

He also offers a caution; “These self-clinging climbers have disc-like suckers. To prevent them from leaving sucker marks on the wall, train them up a wire.”

Best for: Covering fences and walls
Sun/shade: Full sun/ part shade
When to plant: Late spring / early summer
How fast it grows: 1 – 3m per year

4. Passionfruit vines

Passionfruit vines are an ideal climber that also serve a double purpose as an edible plant in your garden. There are many varieties to choose from, including Yellow Giant, Panama Gold, Panama Red and Nellie Kelly. Passionfruit vines do best in warm areas, producing glossy green leaves and the most incredible shaggy-looking purple and white flowers.

For an alternative edible climber, you could go retro with a choko vine. Seasonal vegies that work well to cover a wall include climbing spinach, peas and snow peas, beans and cucumbers.

Best for: Growing on trellises, pergolas and in pots, and for producing edible fruit
Sun/shade: Full sun
When to plant: Spring
How fast it grows: 3 – 4m per year

5. Wisteria

Wisteria sinenses and Wisteria floribunda are the most commonly grown varieties in Australia. Wisteria is a classic climber that produces a thick trunk adorned with pretty perfumed purple flowers that hang down when draped across a patio roof or passageway. Being deciduous, wisteria provides summer shade and winter sun.

Best for: Growing over pergolas or along verandahs
Sun/shade: Full sun
When to plant: Spring
How fast it grows: Up to 3m per year

6. Mandevillas

Mandevillas produce a series of pink and red flowers, thrive in large pots, and bear masses of trumpet blooms most of the year. This fast-growing climber is commonly found in tropical and sub-tropical style gardens but can be grown all around Australia, except in particularly cold climates.

Best for: Growing on trellis or frames
Sun/shade: Full sun / part sun
When to plant: Spring
How fast it grows: Up to 2.5m per year

7. Hardenbergia

Hardenbergia (Hardenbergia spp.), also known as Purple Coral Pea, is a heavily flowering Australian native climber that will bring a burst of colour, along with birds, bees and other insects, to your garden, year-round. It will quickly (even faster than jasmine) climb over fences and sheds, or can be trained to trail along a trellis. It’s a very low-maintenance climbing plant, with the most common varietal being the Hardenbergia violacea or ‘Happy Wanderer’.

Best for: Growing on trellis, fence or walls
Sun/shade: Full sun / part sun
When to plant: Late winter
How fast it grows: Up to 2.5m per year

8. Pandorea

Pandorea (Pandorea jasminoides), also known as the wonga wonga vine or the Bower of Beauty vine, is an Australian native climbing plant that produces an abundance of pretty, trumpet-shaped flowers from spring through to autumn. There are a range of different varietals that produce slightly different shades of flowers, but its rapid growth makes it a particularly popular climbing plant in Australian gardens.

Best for: Climbing along trellis or fences
Sun/shade: Full sun / part sun
When to plant: Spring
How fast it grows: Grow up to 5m

How to fix climbing plants in place

Gardening expert Meredith Kirton shares her tips on how to attach various climbing plants to walls, trellises or posts.

Hooks & thorns

Bougainvillea and climbing roses attach and grow up using hooks and thorns, so wear gloves when pruning. They need support to start their climb, like flexible ties or strips of old stockings. Training those vigorous upright growths (water shoots) to go horizontal will encourage many more flowers.

Twiners

Many climbers, like wisteria, jasmine and even beans, twist and turn as they grow, wrapping themselves around a post or each other. They need small sticks, stakes or fine mesh, like chain wire, to start their journey. If you’re covering a Colorbond fence, you’ll first need to install wires or lattice for them to grow onto.

Tendrils

These corkscrew-like features, on plants like passionfruit, clematis, sweet peas and climbing edible peas, are used to hoist plants upwards and latch onto a support. You’ll need to give these climbers a “leg-up” with smaller sticks or wires if you’re looking at covering a solid fence.

Sucker pads and aerial roots

Plants like Boston ivy, Virginia creeper and English ivy stick to walls. These self-clinging climbers are very vigorous, leaving behind suckers or roots when removed. But they’re great to use as a green screen on an ugly brick wall. The deciduous vines produce a stunning autumn colour show.

The post 8 fast-growing climbing plants anyone can grow, and quickly appeared first on Homes To Love.

How to grow a mandarin tree from seed

1. Save the seed from your mandarin

Keep a few seeds from a large, juicy mandarin. Gently wash the seed clean, allow it to dry on a paper towel and then sow the seed or store it. Fresh seed is more viable (that is more likely to grow) than older seed. Seeds are best planted in spring or early summer. If seed has to be stored keep it in a labelled envelope in an airtight container.

2. Sow the mandarin seed

Sow the seed into a container filled with seed-raising mix (available in bags from garden centres or hardware stores). Seeds can be sown in a small (10cm) pot with one seed per pot. Moisten the mix before sowing the seed then gently push the seed about 5mm deep into the mix and cover it over. After sowing, water the pots with a seaweed solution (follow application rates on the container).

3. Keep the mandarin pot warm

Keep the pots warm either in a glasshouse or place them in a foam box covered with a sheet of glass or plastic to form a mini glasshouse. Keep the box in a warm well-lit spot but not in direct sunlight.

4. Keep the mandarin mix moist

Mist the seed-raising mix so it doesn’t dry out (it should be moist but not soaked). Water gently using a rose attachment on a watering can or hose once the shoot appears. Germination normally takes around seven to 10 days.

5. Allow the mandarin plant to grow

When the seedling is about 5cm high, water with a dilute liquid plant food. Repeat the fertiliser application every 14 days during the warmer months of the year (follow directions on container). At this stage, if the weather is warm, the pot can be moved into a sheltered but sunny spot. Outside it will need extra water as it will dry out more quickly than in the sheltered glasshouse.

6. Repot the mandarin tree

When the seedling is about 10-15cm high with a well-developed root system it is ready to go into a larger container (15cm diameter) with fresh potting mix. Continue to repot into larger containers as the plant grows and its roots begin to fill each new pot.

7. Plant the mandarin tree in the garden

After about two years of growth the seedling should be a robust shrub, which can survive in the garden. If in doubt, continue to grow it in a container until it is around 30cm high or larger.

When to plant mandarin trees?

The optimal time to plant a mandarin tree is in spring or early autumn, avoiding the extremes of summer and winter while taking advantage of warm soil and mild weather.

What type of climate do mandarin trees need to survive?

Mandarin trees thrive in subtropical and warm climates, however, as long as they are frost-protected can also tolerate cooler areas given the right conditions.

How much sun does a mandarin tree need?

Like many citrus varieties, mandarin trees prefer sunny spots that are sheltered from wind. You’re looking for about six to eight hours per day.

How often should mandarin trees be watered?

When first planted, mandarin trees should be watered every day for up to six weeks until they are established. After that, you can cut back to two to three deep waters weekly. Citrus trees grown in pots tend to dry out faster and should be watered more frequently.

What type of soil should I use?

Mandarin trees enjoy well-draining soil with a pH of 6.0–7.0, according to the NSW Department of Industries. You should aim to fertilise and feed about every two months, which will help growth and fruit production.

How long does it take for a mandarin tree to bear fruit?

Once planted, mandarin trees take two to three years to bear fruit, and even as many as seven years if they have been grown from seed. Many other citrus varieties follow the same fruiting pattern. Young trees with weak branches should be discouraged from fruiting by removing flowers and tiny fruit. Flowering occurs in spring with fruit forming in summer and ripening in early autumn.

When should it be harvested?

You will know your mandarin fruit is ready to be harvested when it has turned orange, which typically occurs from early autumn to early spring. Don’t leave them on the tree after this point, as they can dry out. The best way to harvest mandarin is by using secateurs or snips, which avoid causing damage to the tree.

Can you grow mandarin trees indoors? 

Mandarin trees can be grown in pots, and can even thrive indoors given the right conditions. If you can, keep your mandarin tree outside in a pot and aim to bring it inside when the temperatures drop, which will help to protect it from frost.

Common mistakes to avoid when growing mandarin trees

Common mistakes to avoid when planting and growing mandarin trees include:

• Overwatering
• Planting in poorly-drained soil
• Planting too deep
• Not ensuring enough sunlight
• Underfeeding

How to protect mandarin trees from pests

Snails and slugs may attack seedlings. Protect the little plants with a few pellets of iron-based snail and slug bait. Check the leaves for other pests including aphids and caterpillars. Squash any that are found.

The post How to grow a mandarin tree from a seed appeared first on Homes To Love.

How to set up a herb garden for beginners

Consider planting the following easy-to-grow herbs to give your new kitchen garden a kick-start.

1. Rosemary

An evergreen shrub, rosemary likes hot weather and lasts several years, even if the soil remains dry. It makes a good hedge and will grow happily in a container — trim it into shape at the end of summer. Rosemary is the perfect complement to lamb, and its woody stems make great skewers. It can be grown from cuttings.

2. Thyme

A groundcover that likes to creep over the earth or spill out of a pot, thyme needs a sunny, sheltered position. Available in many varieties, including lemon, woolly, caraway, and common, this herb is great to walk on. A delicious flavouring for chicken, thyme also has antiseptic and antifungal properties and is said to counter the effects of ageing.

3. Chives

An essential ingredient in potato salads, this perennial herb is a member of the onion family and looks a little like grass or a slender green onion.

Chives grow happily in the garden or pots and need a sunny spot with slightly moist soil. Simply snip off the outer leaves as you need them. Chives have pretty pink flowers in summer, which make a lovely (and edible) addition to salads.

4. Parsley

One of the best herbs to begin with is parsley. You can buy it in punnets or small pots, but it’s also extremely easy (and cheap) to grow from seed.

If you have a reasonable soil that holds moisture, just make a shallow furrow in damp soil, and sprinkle in some seeds. Alternatively, fill a punnet with potting mix and sow a few parsley seeds, then transplant when the seedlings are large enough to handle.

Parsley shoots in three to four weeks, so you won’t need to wait long to see results. Hand-weed and watch out for hungry slugs or snails. Also, keep the soil moist by watering gently with a watering can with a large rose, or use a gentle setting on the hose nozzle so as not to disturb the new seedlings.

Although parsley is a herb, it can also be used decoratively in the garden. It makes an attractive border plant, perfect for edging a sunny part of the ornamental garden or even the vegie patch.

5. Mint

Spearmint, Vietnamese mint, apple mint, and pineapple mint are just some of the many varieties available. Mint is easy to grow in shady, moist areas, and in pots. You can harvest the leaves as needed and use them in drinks, Asian salads, and sweets. Mint-infused tea is said to relieve anxiety and tension.

Parsley and basil eventually flower, seed and die down, but mint is there for the long haul. Common mint spreads through the garden via underground stems, and for this reason, it is usually recommended to grow it in a pot.

Mint prefers a moist patch of soil, so its spread is usually curtailed when the plant runs out of moisture. Mint also does quite well in light shade and tends to shrivel in full sun. Once you’ve conquered ordinary mint, branch out into some of the more interesting scented mints such as lemon, ginger, and applemint.

Tips for growing mint

• Mint is fairly foolproof, but it does attract tiny caterpillars that chew the leaves, often leaving nothing more than bare stalks.
• Check mint regularly for these pests, particularly when you do see chewed leaves and droppings.
• You can try to control them by squashing them, or could also apply a biological control such as Dipel.
• Pinch off any damaged growth and give chewed plants a good drink of water. A dose of liquid plant food encourages new growth.
  

6. Basil

This herb is easy to grow from seed — sow basil in spring and summer, then collect the seeds in autumn, as the plant will die off in winter. Key in Mediterranean cooking.

7. Borage

One of the prettiest herbs, borage leaves taste like fresh cucumber. It will grow from seed and, as its blue flowers attract bees to aid pollination, plant it near citrus trees and passionfruit vines to increase their harvest.

• Use your mortar and pestle to pound fresh herbs for dressings, marinades, and rubs.
• Don’t ignore the flowers! Often they are great in salads. Use the blooms from chies, nasturitums, borage, lavender, fennel and marigolds to brighten up a leafy salad.

How to use your herb garden in the kitchen

How to take care of your herb garden

Herbs need sunlight, good drainage, and regular water during dry weather. Most prefer good soil but don’t be tempted to add too much compost or manure, as you’ll get rapid growth at the expense of flavour. (A good rule of thumb is to add one bag of compost or manure for every square metre.)

• Some Mediterranean herbs, such as rosemary and sage, prefer poorer, lime-rich soils. Mulch the soil around the herbs, taking care not to build the mulch up against their stems — about 5cm of sugarcane mulch is adequate.
• When planting herbs in containers, use a good-quality potting mix and add water crystals to help the plants survive the summer heat.
• Instead of feeding herbs with chemical fertilisers, use a light mulch of cow manure and a weak watering of seaweed solution to keep them free of nasty residues.
  

What herbs cannot be planted next to each other?

While some herbs will thrive when planted next to vegetables or other herbs, other varieties will suffer. Following a method known as companion planting will help to avoid any negative side effects from the latter, such as differing soil preferences or invasive behaviours. Some examples of herbs that cannot be planted next to each other include:

• Basil with sage or thyme
• Parsley with mint
• Rosemary with mint
• Sage with alliums (such as chives, onion, garlic, shallots)
• Oregano with mint, basil, chives or coriander
• Chives with oregano, sage, thyme, or rosemary

Summer jobs for your herb garden

Continually harvest herbs to keep them trim and shapely. When it comes to thyme, mint, sage, and lemon balm, regular pruning — by shortening the stems by more than half — will rejuvenate your herbs when they’re looking tired.

Most herbs planted in the garden will last the summer well, but potted herbs will need watering every day, and sometimes twice a day, when the weather is really hot. Take cuttings of herbs such as rosemary, thyme, and lavender throughout the summer.

Autumn jobs for your herb garden

When the weather becomes cooler, annual herbs, such as basil, coriander, and dill, will begin to flower and set seed. Never fear, once mature, these seeds can be collected by hand, and then stored in paper bags in a cool, dry spot until next spring, when you can sow them and start the cycle all over again.

Frost-sensitive herbs like rosemary should be brought into warm spots, while herbs such as parsley, sage, and thyme will carry on through the winter cold.

• Herbs need sunlight, good drainage and regular watering in dry weather.
• Potted herbs need daily watering in really hot weather, and sometimes twice a day.
• Continually harvest herbs to keep them trip and shapely.
• In autumn, collect the seeds set by annual herbs, store them and re-plant in spring.
• Parsley, sage and thyme continue to grow during winter.

Herb-growing tips

The post How to create a bountiful and productive herb garden appeared first on Homes To Love.

You don’t have to be a gardening expert to build a vegie patch or teepee and they can create countless hours of educational, sustainable fun for the kids, even in the cooler months.

We spoke to Narelle Peart from Scotts Osmocote, and Angie Thomas, Horticulture Consultant to Yates, about the benefits of getting kids into the garden.

As a mum herself, Narelle says it’s always a great time to jump into the garden to provide children with much-needed vitamin-D and education on insects, herbs, and veggies. “Gardening is also a great bonding activity for parents and kids and will supply endless fun activities.”

“In addition to being good fun, there’s a bunch of reasons to get kids in the garden including physical activity, fresh air, and even mindfulness. Getting their hands dirty in the garden has been scientifically proven to increase serotonin levels through contact with soil and specific soil bacteria,” Angie adds.

So stop your kids bouncing off the walls and try your hand at our top five kids’ gardening activities.

How to do gardening with children?

Gardening with kids is all about creating wonder and fun while instilling them with a sense of responsibility.

Involve them in the decision-making process by asking them what they would like to grow or even take them on a trip to the garden centre so they can help you choose seeds and plants. Ensure they are involved in the sowing and planting process, and caring for the plants as they grow. Let kids pick the veggies and fruit themselves, even if the harvest doesn’t make it back into the house – a home-grown garden snack can be more fun!

5 kids’ gardening ideas to try

1. Make your own backyard games

A healthy lawn free of weeds and bindii is a great place to play. There are a tonne of backyard games that you and your kids can play using household items to pass the time. If you have any small balls and leftover plastic bottles, for example, fill the bottles with some water and line them up to create a family bowling league in the backyard. If Ninja Warrior has inspired your little one, create a course of hoops, mini-challenges, and walking planks on your lawn. Let your imagination run wild!

2. Build a herb or vegetable garden

Building a herb garden is an easy way to introduce your kids to gardening and spice up those home-cooked meals. Take your kids down to the local nursery to pick up some seedlings and something to plant your herb garden in, but remember, to give your child the best chance of success, pick out seeds that are in season! For added benefits, invest in a quality potting mix that will provide your new herb garden with valuable nutrients.

If a vegie patch is more your style, some easy-growing options include cherry tomatoes, capsicum, loose leaf lettuces, beans, strawberries, blueberries, baby carrots, and cucumbers. Come autumn, kids can try planting veggies like snow peas and baby leaf spinach.

3. Build a worm farm

Get your hands dirty and introduce your kids to the world of worms by building a worm farm. This hands-on activity is both a mini science experiment and a great way to teach your kids what worms do for gardening. Worm farms are easy to build and only need a few household items. Try gathering a styrofoam box, worm bedding (such as shredded paper or compost), newspaper, soil, and some compost worms. Once a few weeks have passed, slowly add food scraps for worms and watch your new wriggly friends dig and mix up the soil.

4. Make a set of hanging baskets

Perfect for indoors and out, constructing a hanging basket with your kids is a weatherproof project. Flowers and plants like marigold, devil’s ivy, and geraniums are great for a hanging garden installation. If you are hanging your baskets indoors, invest in Osmocote’s Premium Indoor Potting Mix as it doesn’t contain compost or pine bark, which is known to shelter pesky insects, like fungus gnats. For an added pop of colour, decorate with fairies, cars, or dinosaurs and hang at a child-friendly height so kids can check on their new hanging plants!

5. Go on an insect scavenger hunt

Everyone loves a scavenger hunt, so why not make it interesting by creating a hunt for bugs and insects in the garden for your kids? All you need to do is head outdoors with a paper, pen, list of bugs, and magnifying glass for you and your kids to learn all about the bugs living in your garden. While out exploring the depths of your garden, not only will your kids find out about the secret lives of their new six-legged friends, they will learn valuable observation skills. We always recommend using gloves when playing in the garden.

Benefits of getting kids in the garden

There’s a bunch of reasons to get kids in the garden including physical activity, fresh air, and even mindfulness. Getting their hands dirty in the garden has been scientifically proven to increase serotonin levels through contact with soil and specific soil bacteria. Serotonin is a happy chemical that helps fight depression and improves immune systems. If children don’t get the opportunity to play in the dirt, it’s thought to contribute to an increased risk of allergies, asthma, and mental illness.

The post 5 kids’ gardening activities to get them outdoors appeared first on Homes To Love.

Where to position a citrus plant in your garden for the most fruit

Citrus trees love sunshine, so you’ll need to find a sunny, north-facing position if you want optimal fruit. In cooler climates, grow them alongside a sunny wall, where radiated heat will warm them. You can also bring citrus pots inside during winter to protect against frost.

How much water do citrus plants need?

Citrus trees like water, but it’s essential you have well-draining soil so the water doesn’t pool in the root zone. If your soil isn’t draining effectively, this can lead to root rot which will prevent the tree from growing leaves, flowers and subsequently fruit. Test your soil by digging a hole in a potential planting spot and fill it with water. If it takes more than 30 minutes to drain, the drainage is inadequate. Mound the soil or choose another spot.

Once planted, give young citrus trees a good water weekly and up the frequency to two or three times a week if it’s hot and/or windy. For more mature trees, give them a deep water two or three times a week.

How to prune your citrus

When grown as a garden tree, your citrus should be trained into four main branches. Open up the centre of the plant to increase airflow, and cut back shoots to a few buds after fruiting. Prune the young shoots to create bushiness.

The best time to prune your citrus depends on how mature the tree is. For young trees, more regular pruning helps the tree grow into a suitable shape to produce fruit, while more mature trees should be pruned annually after you harvest.

Using clean pruning sheers, snip off any dead or rotted branches, as well as small shoots. By removing any low branches, you’ll encourage your tree to grow bigger and become more bushy, resulting in a higher quantity of flowers and fruit.

• Five hours of sunshine a day is needed for maximum fruiting.
• Citrus trees like water but only if it drains quickly. Infrequent, deep watering is best.
• In cold climates, plant the tree in spring, when the soil has warmed up. In warm areas, trees can also be planted in autumn.
• Young citrus trees will benefit from regular pruning to encourage growth and maintain a pleasing shape.

How to produce the most fruit from citrus trees

Growing citrus in small spaces

Do you want to grow citrus but don’t have the room for big trees? One solution is to train your citrus flat against a warm, north-facing fence, using a technique known as espaliering.

Plant your young trees at 1.2–1.5-metre intervals, about 30cm from the fence. Tie the stems to horizontal wires along the fence and place the wires about 20cm apart. This way the trees don’t encroach on the garden, but provide an evergreen screen to hide the fence.

Another option is to grow citrus in pots.

How to grow lots of fruit on potted citrus trees

Everyone with a spot of sun can grow citrus in a pot, but be aware they need regular care, feeding and watering to produce a healthy crop. You’ll need a large pot — at least 40cm in diameter — and good quality citrus potting mix to produce a healthy citrus tree. Ensure you choose a dwarf citrus, such as Lots a’ Lemons or Dwarf Eureka, which won’t outgrow your pot.

Potted citrus trees needs root pruning at least every three years. This involves pulling the tree out of its pot, cutting 5cm off the roots all around the root ball with a bread knife, and replanting into the same pot with some fresh potting mix and citrus food. This will make a significant difference to the quantity of fruit you will get the following season.

How long does it take for a citrus plant to bear fruit?

If you plant a young citrus tree in your garden or a pot, you can typically expect it to take at least two years before it produces a substantial amount of fruit. In fact, some gardeners suggest pruning the flowers in the first 1-2 years to allow it to grow strong as it matures, which could result in a better yield and higher quality fruit in the future.

If you want a citrus plant to produce fruit quickly, consider getting a more mature tree or one that is already established in a pot.

When do lemon trees fruit in Australia?

While lemon trees generally bear fruit in Australia between late autumn and winter, in regions with mild weather, lemon trees can continue to produce multiple fruits throughout the year.

In fact, you can buy Australian lemons all year round, according to Citrus Australia. The industry body says limes are also available throughout the year, but that “the best limes are available from January to April”. It may also be different when you’re growing your own citrus trees.

Can you have too many lemons on a tree?

Whether it is worth removing some fruit from your flowering citrus tree is actually a commonly asked question. While it may seem counterproductive for those wishing to bear plenty of fruit, if a tree — or its branches — can no longer support the amount of fruit it has produced, you can end up coming away with nothing.

Similarly, just as is often the case with oversized vegetables, there is a correlation between quantity and quality when it comes to citrus fruit. Overcrowded fruit can often be smaller in size and less tasty.

In order to avoid this, it is best to remove some of the fruit, leaving behind the pieces closest to the thickest part of the branch.

When do orange trees fruit in Australia?

Oranges fruit at different times of the year depending on the variety. For example, navel oranges typically have their season in winter, from June to October, while valencia oranges have a summer season from November to February.

According to Citrus Australia, these are the two most popular orange varieties commercially grown in the country, but you’ll find other varieties fruit at different times. When you buy a citrus plant, you should be able to get details of the variety and when it will typically produce fruit.

When to fertilise citrus trees for maximum fruit

Citrus trees need to be adequately fertilised if you want them to produce good quality fruit. Fertilise your trees every two to three months from spring through to autumn, but try to avoid fertilising when they are flowering as this can produce beautiful leaf growth but fewer fruits.

Mature trees need two kilograms each of fertiliser and citrus food applied to the dripline (the outermost circumference of the tree canopy) each season. For younger trees, start off with 200 grams of food and build up the amount as they grow.

What is the best fertiliser for citrus trees?

Fertiliser is essential if you want to get citrus that’s bursting with fruit. The best fertiliser for citrus trees include well-rotted cow manures, potash, blood and bone or a handful of garden lime each year. Planting on mounded soil will prevent drainage problems, collar rot and fungal diseases.

The best citrus fertiliser to shop in 2025

The best citrus fertiliser in Australia in 2025

01

Scotts Osmocote Organic Plus Fruit and Citrus 800g

from $13.46 at Amazon

Best for: organic fruit

This plant food and soil improver has been formulated to boost flowering and fruiting of all citrus trees including lemon, lime, mandarin and oranges. It consists of blends of organic fertiliser and Osmocote that conditions the soil for up to six months.

Key features:

• Specifically designed for fruit and citrus
• Feeds for six months
• Promotes production of large, juicy fruit

Shop now

02

Brunnings Organic Blood & Bone Based Fertiliser 2.5kg

from $14 at Woolworths

Best for: slow-release nutrients

Brunnings Blood & Bone based fertiliser is a traditional organic fertiliser that releases its nutrients slowly into the soil. This is a suitable choice for citrus plants as the nitrogen and phosphorus formula will encourage healthy growth.

Key features:

• 2.5kg bag
• Suitable for all types of plants
• Can be applied every six weeks for best results

Shop now

03

Charlie Carp All Purpose Fertiliser 1L

from $10.86 at Amazon

Best for: liquid fertiliser

Suitable for veggies, orchids, roses and of course, citrus trees, the Charlie Carp liquid fertiliser is a natural solution made from an invasive introduced species of European Carp. It provides a quick and simple boost of nutrients and oils to stimulate the growth of your citrus plant.

Key features:

• Ready-to-use liquid fertiliser
• Rich in protein, Omega 3 oils, nutrients and trace elements
• Proudly Australian made
• Makes 300L

Shop Now

04

Brunnings Organic Fruit & Citrus Food 2.5kg

from $14 at Woolworths

Best for: encouraging juicy fruit

This Brunnings formula combines organic nutrients with fertilisers to produce healthy, juicy fruit in citrus plants. It is ready to use and simple to sprinkle on a wide variety of citrus trees, and will continue to release nutrients for months after application.

Key features:

• 2.5kg bag
• Organic and fast-acting nutrients including potassium
• Helps to produce large, juicy fruit

Shop Now

The post How to grow citrus trees that are bursting with fruit appeared first on Homes To Love.

When he and his wife, Stephanie, bought the property in 2016 for their family, including two children – Frankie, now nine, and Maggie, six – they found an orderly, if ordinary, garden with expansive lawns, a freeform swimming pool and a tennis court. Its largest assets, literally, were 100-year-old soaring yellow gums – native to the Bellarine Peninsula – providing shade and a dramatic backdrop. “Their canopies twist and turn overhead, creating vast shapes under the night sky,” says Stephanie.

Below them, however, the garden was a “typical messy bush block”, according to Jason. He spent the first few months stripping back prolific pittosporums and weeds to reveal the sheer size of what confronted him. While a flat site, its soil was impoverished. “It had never been properly mulched and the shrubs had sucked out the nutrients,” says Jason, who upgraded the soil with manure, mulches and new blends while installing irrigation and drainage.

The next stage was working out which trees to keep and then experimenting with plants to complement them. “We celebrated the yellow gums, making them the reference point for the design,” says Jason. “They frame the property and their massive canopies created height, balanced by layers below. We achieved different heights by building undulating mounds, including groundcovers at the lowest, flowers, medium-height shrubs, tall grasses, and the established trees.”

Every two years, a different section of the garden evolved. “Plants in a garden bed would fail due to poor light, so we transplanted them,” he says. “By opening up new sections, we created more light and space, and the plants grew better. Then we brought in more plants and layered what worked.”

The lush result boasts a series of discrete zones. To the left of the house, a woodland focuses on shade planting, with the large gums underplanted with fleshy, waxy evergreens, such as tractor seat plants (Ligularia dentata reniformis) and elephant ears (Alocasia macrorrhiza), together with oakleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea quercifolia), wind flowers (Anemone hupehensis japonica) and miscanthus (Miscanthus sinensis) grasses. ‘Mounds’ of greenery create height and frame spaces, with one featuring a five-metre magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora ‘St Mary’), chosen for its glossy leaves and hardiness.

Straddling a semi-circular driveway, the front section forms a “magical perennial garden”, says Jason. “Planting is repeated, so the colours are consistent and the garden feels organised and more formal.” Coastal rosemary (Westringia ‘Wynyabbie Gem’) balls are hedged for shape and interest, the curves softening the home’s straight lines.

Against the house, dwarf lemon-scented gums (Corymbia citriodora) echo the soaring gums and ensure privacy. The back garden is the main view enjoyed from the kitchen and the front door. “I wanted to create a wow moment,” says Jason. “This is achieved through abundant colour and green foliage. A mix of shade and perennial planting includes salvias [Salvia nemorosa ‘Caradonna’], Russian sage [Salvia yangii] and catmint [Nepeta cataria] for colour, while Karl Foerster grass [Calamagrostis ‘Karl Foerster’] provides height and gentle movement in the wind.”

Just behind the house sits an all-weather entertainment zone. “We couldn’t live without the recycled red-brick fireplace. It’s lit every weekend, year-round, for warmth and ambience,” says Stephanie. This is complemented by a pizza oven, a built-in barbecue with concrete bench, and a motorised retractable screen that acts as a windbreak, while bifolds connect directly to the home’s kitchen.

The 1980s pool leaked and looked tired. “We designed a new pool within the same hole to capitalise on existing plumbing, but now it’s rectangular and above ground, designed to look like a water feature,” says Jason. “The black glass tiles create a mirrored look and reflect the plants.”

Its infinity edge sits within direct line of sight from the house. “When you lean over the edge of the pool, you feel like you’re floating in the garden,” says Stephanie.

That’s helped through exotic planting below, including rice paper plants (Tetrapanax papyrifer), Mexican lilies (Beschorneria ‘Mexican lily’), ginger lilies (Hedychium coronarium), sedums (Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’), and tractor seat (Ligularia dentata reniformis) plants.

Meanwhile, another garden abuts separate guest accommodation to the far right of the house. “We wanted a cottage feel, so we chose plants to interact with – herb and vegie planters offering clippings of lavender, lemons, herbs and succulents,” says Jason.

To meld with an adjacent nature reserve, he also planted woodland natives such as grass trees (Xanthorrhoea australis). “When the garden is in full bloom from November to April, it takes my breath away,” says Stephanie. “Arriving along the semi-circular driveway is an experience to savour – the colours and volume of flowers either side is enchanting. I love November for the spring colour, and February for the late-summer blooms of the larger perennials like eupatorium [Eupatorium purpureum] and oakleaf hydrangeas.”

The garden is also a magnet for wildlife, says Jason. “The biodiversity is amazing, with bees, butterflies and skinks basking in the sun, and many birds, from colourful parrots to squawking cockatoos, as well as a resident magpie we’ve named Harry. He taps on the glass door every morning and warbles until we throw him a bite.”

King’s Gardens & Pools: kingslandscaping.com.au and @kings_gardens_and_pools_

The Landscaper

The post An enchanting garden framed by soaring yellow gums on the Bellarine Peninsula appeared first on Homes To Love.

Pedro Neves, Farm Manager at Dairy Flat Farm in Daylesford, agrees. “Each time of the year brings its own magic,” he says. “Some say that nature is wise enough to provide the vegetables and fruits with the nutrients you need in that season.” And while nothing tastes as sweet as homegrown herbs and vegies, there are a few prep steps you’ll need to take before you get your hands dirty, no matter if you’ve got limited space, or plenty of room.

How to grow vegetables in your garden

First, you’ll want to choose a corner of your garden with at least six hours of sunlight a day that’s close to a water source. Also, make sure to pick some top-quality soil and think about how you’ll organise your produce so that it’s easy to maintain and pleasing to the eye. Nadia says a nice idea is to organise your plantings into themes. “I prefer to plant herbs together in companion groups based on their culinary flavours,” she says. “For example, French and Italian continental herbs like thyme, French tarragon, parsley, oregano and garlic go well together.”

What is the best thing to plant right now?

Although it probably goes without saying, the best plants, vegetables, flowers and herbs to plant in summer are those that thrive in heat and sunlight. Ultimately, the best summer plants and vegetables to grow in Australia will depend on how your garden is oriented and and what climate you live in. Nadia says no matter where you live and what you plant, it’s a good idea to consider covering your vegie patch or herb pots with some shade cloth to prevent attacks from well-known pests including thrip, caterpillars, cabbage moths, snails and other vermin.

Alice Cameron from Plume Studio in Melbourne shares her five easy-to-follow steps for a healthy vegie patch.

1. Select vegies and herbs that you will actually use! This will keep you interested and excited about your harvests.
2. Soil is key to preparing a vegie patch. Selecting a good quality compost is ideal to getting the most out of the vegetables you plant (along with turning this over if you are replanting for the following season).
3. If you are limited on space, growing vegetables in pots is another great option; just use a good quality potting mix rather than compost.
4. Feed your vegetables with a good complete fertiliser regularly, as this will optimise your production.
5. Lastly, but most importantly, water regularly!

How to prepare a vegie patch – for beginners

What to plant in Queensland now?

In Queensland’s warm and humid climate, Pedro says it’s important to focus on heat-tolerant vegetable varieties including a few vegetables you can grow all year long. In subtropical areas of the state, this would include bok choy, cabbage and cress, while in tropical areas chilli, cress and eggplant will work regardless of the season. Nadia says the herbs to think about planting now in Queensland include mint, basil, thyme, parsley, oregano, mushrooms, micro-greens, sprouts, watercress, Thai basil, garlic chives and chilli. As a general warning, Nadia adds, “In more humid regions, like Queensland, avoid herbs that prefer dryer conditions, such as rosemary, thyme and sage.”

When to plant vegetables in Victoria?

Pedro, who spends his time on a 40-acre regenerative farm growing vegetables, fruit, herbs and flowers in picturesque central Victoria, says there’s always plenty to do in the garden. “In January, you can still sow outdoors, this is relevant for beans, cucumber, bok choi, beetroot, carrots, onions and zucchini,” he advises. “Sow indoors for transplanting vegetables like broccoli, leek, cabbage, celery – this is a general guideline for Victoria.” As far as herbs go, Nadia advises: “Summer herbs for Victoria include parsley, sage, basil, tarragon, chives, garlic, coriander, chilli, lemongrass, as well as edible flowers like nasturtium and viola.”

Wherever you are, it’s important to become familiar with your local microclimate, as this can have a big impact on what you’re able to grow successfully. Pedro gives an example: “The planting window for pumpkins in subtropical areas is from August to March and February to November, while in Victoria the pumpkin season is from October to December. Something similar happens with tomatoes; in Victoria, our planting window is short, from September to December, while in subtropical areas it’s from August to March and in tropical areas from February to July.”

When to plant vegetables in NSW?

When to plant vegetables in NSW depends entirely on what you want to grow. Nadia says in NSW now is the time to plant herbs such as chilli, chamomile, French tarragon, dill, basil, oregano,  micro-greens, Thai basil, and garlic chives. Generally speaking, make sure you harvest your summer crops to stimulate your garden beds and give everything a little more attention during the heat, especially leaf crops like lettuce.

Summer is also a great time to catch up on non-planting-related tasks to ensure the longevity of your garden. “Deadhead flowers or seed heads and regularly tip prune herbs to prevent them ‘growing to seed’, especially parsley,” says Nadia. Pedro adds: “Give special attention to watering new and young plants. It’s also a good time to propagate climbers and plant autumn-flowering bulbs.”

What to plant according to the seasons

Summer

“Currently we are getting to the end of the summer growing season,” says Alice. “So unfortunately a bit late to plant capsicums, chillies and tomatoes.” However, there’s still time to plant:

• Lettuce
• Carrots
• Leeks
• Cucumbers
• Zucchinis
  

Autumn

“Studying your microclimate is the first step to get familiar with the seasonality,” says Pedro. Make sure to check out Dale Vine’s extensive guide of vegetables you should be planting in March, but for a quick reference, these plants are perfect to plant in autumn:

• Leafy greens including spinach, rocket, silverbeet and Asian greens
• Root vegetables including carrots, beets, radishes and turnips
• Brassicas including broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage and kale
  

Winter

“As a general rule of thumb, there are two main planting seasons for vegetables in Melbourne – late spring for a summer harvest and late autumn for a winter harvest,” says Alice. “However, you can break this down further and have rotating crops and stagger your vegetable planting so you always have something growing and ready for harvest.” Advanced gardeners, you’ll want to master your garden year-round with these vegetables to grow in winter, but for beginners, the following are a good idea to plant in the cooler months:

• Cabbage
• Garlic
• Artichoke
• Peas
• Potatoes
• Snow Peas
  

Spring

Spring! For those with space for a kitchen garden, we’ve compiled a list of the best vegetables to plant in spring for a thriving kitchen garden. A quick guide is as follows:

• Capsicum
• Tomatoes
• Eggplants
• Chillies
• Cucumbers
• Zucchinis
• Pumpkin

The post What vegetables to plant now, according to the experts appeared first on Homes To Love.

How to grow frangipani

1. Choose your location

Select a favourable location for your tree. Aim for a north-facing spot if possible that receives lots of warmth and sunlight.

2. Prepare the soil

You should ensure the soil is well-draining, and it’s best to avoid spots where the soil can become — and stay — wet. Before planting, loosen the soil and add compost. For clay soils, work in gypsum at the recommended rate to improve air and water movement. Planting in a mound, about 15cm above the surface, improves drainage in clay.

3. Dig a hole

Dig a hole that is twice as wide as the root ball and about the same depth. Remove the plant from its container and tease out the roots gently. Backfill and gently firm the soil down.

4. Water and mulch

Water your frangipani tree well and add mulch around the base of the tree. Prevent mulch from touching the base of the trunk itself, as otherwise, you are encouraging basal rot to occur during wet weather.

5. When to transplant

Transplant during the warm seasons when recovery is fastest. Retain as many roots as possible and firmly stake until strong anchoring roots develop, this usually takes about 12 months.

When to plant frangipani?

Planting frangipani at the right time is crucial. In tropical or sub-tropical climates, it’s best to plant in late winter to early spring. In temperate or coastal climates, plant frangipani in early spring, allowing the plant to take advantage of warmer temperatures as it establishes.

What type of climate does frangipani need to survive?

Frangipani trees grow best in tropical and sub-tropical regions, where they originally hail from. Frangipanis grow about 30–60cm a year, depending on climate and care.

Given the right conditions, they can also grow well in cooler zones, if a little more slowly, especially if the microclimate around the house is warm. Radiating sun and heat from brick paving, walls or mirrors will help the frangipani withstand cooler winters, so keep them close to the house.

In frosty areas it is still possible to grow frangipanis in pots, which should be brought inside during winter.

How much sun does frangipani need?

Frangipani plants prefer full and direct sunlight and require as much as six hours every day. While they can tolerate partial shade, you may find that their colours are less vibrant and they may produce fewer flowers altogether.

Where to plant frangipani

Use the shape of the tree to your advantage in the garden, taking note of its wide umbrella shape. Plant it somewhere you can admire it from up close, near a second-storey window or verandah where you can fully appreciate the flowers and fragrance.

Take advantage of the shade it gives — a blessing on hot summer days. Plant one on the western side of your house to help shade the house in summer, and allow the sun to stream in during winter when the stems are bare.

Plant one at the front gate to welcome you home each day, or beside a quiet pool to create a relaxed scene.

How often should frangipani be watered?

Frangipani trees are relatively to easy care for. While it’s important to avoid overwatering, which can create root rot, if conditions are dry in warmer months, you can water sparingly — about once a week, or just while the flowers and leaves are developing.

What type of soil should I use?

Frangipani requires well-draining soil, ideally one with a sandy texture. They will struggle in clay soils, where it is hard for water to drain away — in this case, it is best to keep them growing in large pots. You can add some organic matter to the soil, which will aid growth, but it’s not essential.

When will it bloom?

In Australia, frangipanis can flower from late spring to early autumn. However, the window remains somewhat dependant on climate. For example, tropical and sub-tropical climates usually allow a longer flowering season, whereas in cooler climates it is usually shorter. As deciduous trees, it’s also important to note that they will lose their leaves during winter, but do not fear, they’ll soon return in spring.

Can you grow frangipani in a pot?

For gardeners restricted to containers on terraces, roof gardens, balconies and patios, low-care frangipanis are the perfect choice. They grow well in pots, flowering reliably every summer. Choose a quality potting mix and a wide, shallow, terracotta pot (which is porous and will help drainage), and away you go.

Can you grow frangipani indoors? 

Yes, you can grow frangipani indoors. In fact, if you have opted to plant your tree in a pot, you may like to move it inside during winter if you live in a particularly cool climate. To grow a frangipani tree indoors, simply follow the same steps as above. Ensure the position you choose gets direct and plentiful sunlight and that the temperature can be kept between 18 and 27 degrees celsius.

Frangipani benefits

Despite breeding advances in flower colour, frangipani fragrance remains the true prize. Grow them where you can appreciate their delicious scent, which intensifies at night. Their size and umbrella-shaped silhouette make frangipanis ideal for landscapes large and small.

In summer they cast dappled shade, they line footpaths to create beautiful avenues and they are ideal for framing distant views – perhaps a beach. Grow them in lawns and let their fallen flowers cover the ground. Their leafless branches in the cooler months allow sunshine to filter through, just right for brightening a patio in winter.

Their light canopy can be underplanted with perennials, their forked branches support hanging baskets and their trunks can be used for growing epiphytes, such as ferns, orchids and bromeliads. Grown in tubs, dwarf varieties make colourful pool-side specimens and are ideal for hot or sunny balconies.

Common mistakes to avoid when growing frangipani

During wet and cool weather frangipanis can be at risk of frangipani rust, a root, branch and tip rot caused by a fungus. You will know plants are affected when you notice the stems becoming soft. To check on your plant’s health, squeeze the stems — firm stems indicate a healthy tree.

To reduce the risks, avoid watering your frangipani in winter. Also, if the stem becomes wrinkled the tree is not well — cease watering and spray leaves with AntiRot. If you notice spongy stems, remove the stem completely to the junction with the main branch.

Thinning out 15 to 20 per cent of the canopy of your mature frangipani is good to do every few years; it opens up the branches, allows light in and reduces stem rot.

Frangipani disease and pests

Frangipani rust, Coleosporium plumeriae, was first detected in Queensland in 1993 and has now spread to many parts of Australia. Look for masses of tiny yellow spots on leaf undersides during spring to autumn. Mature spots, called pustules, release yellow spores that dust foliage below. Infected leaves fall early. Remove and dispose of the infected leaves in the garbage because they’re a source of reinfection. Frangipani rust isn’t fatal. Spraying early with sulfur or a copper-based fungicide helps control it, but won’t eliminate the problem.

Do you need to fertilise frangipani?

You’ll be pleased to know that frangipani rarely need feeding, although they will flower bigger and better than ever if you spread some fertiliser around the drip line (under the branches) during spring and summer.

When to prune frangipani

Mature trees can grow to around 6m high and 5m wide, although older trees can be taller in tropical climates. They grow slowly, only about 20cm per year. This, along with their small root ball, makes them ideal for planting around pools, in planter beds, containers and beside walls, as there is no fear the roots will harm any structures.

If they become top-heavy they can be pruned without fear of failure. Trees around pools can be trained to tilt from a young age giving the impression the tree is leaning over and hugging the pool.

• Frangipanis suit any style of garden and will cast a tropical spell over it
• There are up to 300 different colours of frangipani flowers in Australia
• Mature franigpanis can grow to around 6 metres high and 5 metres wide
• Plant them on the western side of your house to help shade it in summer

Frangipani facts

Frangipani varieties

The bold hybrids of Plumeria x rubra are the most widely admired. Unpruned in warm areas, they reach 9m high with a spread of 5m, but are generally smaller, especially in milder climates.

The fragrant flowers come in hues of white, yellow, pink, orange, purple and red. With an expanding range of colour combinations and patterns, plus dwarfs from 1–2m, it’s easy to understand why the ubiquitous white frangipani has fallen from grace.

The Singapore or evergreen frangipani, Plumeria obtusa, is now very fashionable. The allure? Large, pure white flowers and broad, glossy leaves. Reaching 5m high, it’s ideal for city gardens in the tropics and subtropics.

What colour will my frangipani be?

The classic white-flowering frangipani is the first to flower and remains a favourite for many. But you may be surprised to know they come in all colours of the rainbow.

Enthusiasts can see up to 300 different flower colours in Australia alone. From pale pinks to butter lemon to the vibrant shades of peach, mango, lipstick pink and blood red, there is now a frangipani in every colour — even lilac. They also come in bicolours and tricolours with striped petals.

Petal shapes also vary from thick, overlapping scalloped petals to elegant, elongated petals. Choose wisely, as frangipanis last forever. New colours have new fragrances, and it is interesting to discern vanilla, coconut, apricot and jasmine fragrances in some varieties. Ask your local nursery for the Rainbow Tree Collection which includes many new frangipani colours.

How to propagate frangipani

Frangipani trees really are the gift that keeps on giving. Aside from producing fragrant flowers, it is also incredibly easy to grow new trees from cuttings. Discover our guides on how to take frangipani cuttings, and how to grow frangipani cuttings.

Are frangipanis poisonous?

Frangipanis have a milky sap that can irritate some people’s skin, causing rashes and blistering in extreme cases. If ingested, the sap can cause vomiting and diarrhoea.

The post How to grow and care for frangipani trees appeared first on Homes To Love.

To encourage most indoor trailing plants to grow and flourish, you need to ensure they receive bright light for most of the day but are out of direct sunlight and cold draughts. It’s also best to water them when the potting mix begins to dry out and let the water completely drain. As they’re indoors, trailing plants can also get pretty dusty, so ensure you keep the leaves of your indoor plants free of dust. You can easily do this with a microfibre glove or neem plant spray.

Whether you display your indoor plants in your bathroom or showcase them as a large statement throughout your home, your indoor vine plants will love you if you let them rest outside from time to time, in a bright but sheltered spot. This allows them time to regenerate, get some fresh air, and keep them happy.

This is also the best time to fertilise your indoor trailing plants to encourage new growth or repot them with fresh potting mix.

If you’re looking to start, or maybe just add to, your indoor plant collection, these five cascading indoor plants are perfect for hanging in your home.

The best trailing indoor plants for hanging

1. Devil’s ivy (Epipremnum aureum)

Devil’s ivy is one of the easiest indoor hanging plants to grow and one that we think drapes beautifully. Also known as pothos, it has small but tough heart-shaped green leaves that are patterned with yellow.

Devil’s ivy plants have trailing stems and are easy to grow from cuttings to increase your collection throughout your home. They also effectively remove toxins from the air, meaning they’re not only good to look at, but are good for you.

Pet owners, be warned though, Devil’s ivy is toxic to pets, so make sure it doesn’t drape all the way down to somewhere they can reach.

2. Chain of hearts (Ceropegia woodii)

Chain of hearts, also called Ceropegia woodii, grows long, elegant chains of tiny mottled grey-green heart-shaped leaves. It’s the perfect plant for not only draping over your bookshelf but also training to grow around the room or drip down elegantly from a hanging basket.

The perfect plant for those who aren’t great with green things, it’s super durable and needs little care other than occasional watering. When looked after well enough, they can grow up to a few metres long, making for quite the spectacle. With dainty leaves, they’re the perfect way to bring a bit of colour into more minimalist interiors.

3. Philodendron (Philodendron scandens)

While there are numerous variants of philodendrons, the heartleaf or sweetheart plant (Philodendron scandens), is best for draping. They have beautiful heart-shaped, glossy green leaves, and while they’re often sold growing on moss support, they’ll grow cascading down just as happily as climbing up. Plus, they generally do well in low and indirect light, making it ideal for indoor environments.

Similarly, there is the Fiddleleaf Philodendron (Philodendron Bipennifolium) with horse-head-shaped leaves, which is quite similar in appearance to Monstera deliciosa, a large-leafed climbing or trailing plant that can also easily be grown indoors in pots.

4. Spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum)

As the strappy-leafed spider plant grows it produces plantlets that hang down from the mother plant much like spiders dangling from a web. Enjoy the cascade of growth or detach a few of the small satellite plants to grow more plants. The variegated spider plant has white leaves striped with green and is very attractive and easy to grow, and loves bright, indirect light.

This plant is actually a perennial herb and is simple to care for, thriving in even the harshest of conditions. A Clean Air study conducted by NASA even discovered that the spider plant can reduce indoor pollution by removing formaldehyde and xylene from the air.

5. String of pearls (Senecio rowleyanus)

The aptly named string of pearls plant is an unusual-looking succulent plant that will add a lot of visual interest to your home. It is fast-growing and easy to propagate and thrives in brightly lit rooms.

If you notice the beads of the plant starting to shrivel this is likely due to watering issues – string of pearls don’t require much water, but too much or too little can cause the beads to shrivel, with the latter being the most common cause. So keep in mind to only water this indoor trailing plant once every two weeks.

What is the fastest growing trailing houseplant?

The Devil’s Ivy plant is the fastest growing trailing indoor plant of this list, and is renowned for its fast growth and ability to thrive in a number of environments. In just a few months, it can produce long trailing vines.

Other great indoor vine plants

• English Ivy (Hedera helix)
• Betel Leaf plant (Piper betle)
• Jasmine (Jasminum)
• Hoya (Hoya spp)

The best draping plant accessories to shop

01

Botanica planter set in white

$185.00, Myer

Don’t have somewhere up high to hang your indoor vine plants from? Don’t worry, these raised planters do all the work for you. Perfect to style in the corner of your living room, bathroom, or hallway, they’re sleek and minimal and available to purchase with Afterpay.

Size: 34cm x 73.5cm, 34cm x 62.5cm

Materials: Metal

Colour: White

Key Features:

• Two sizes
• White metal frame
• Easy to clean

Shop Now

02

The Plant Runner neem oil natural leaf shine

$21.95, Biome

Indoor plants can quickly become dusty and when this happens the dust particles can actually limit their ability to photosynthesize and grow. Neem oil has many different uses but has become particularly popular with indoor plants, keeping their leaves lush and shiny, and most importantly, dust-free.

Size: 250mL glass bottle

Ingredients: Neem oil, vegetable wetting agent

Key Features:

• Australian made and owned
• Designed by horticulturalists
• Hand blended with a vegetable based wetting agent

Shop Now

03

Dome hanging planter in Salt

$129, Temple & Webster

This curved hanging pot will add a touch of modern minimalism to your home. Its neutral colour will let your lush, green plants shine and create a sculptural moment in any room. Proudly made in Australia from resin and leather, it boasts both functionality and form.

Size: 17cm x 27cm x 27cm

Materials: Resin, leather

Colour: Salt

Key Features:

• Handcrafted in Australia.
• With drainage hole
• Designed for indoor use

Shop Now

The post The best trailing indoor plants to drape around your home appeared first on Homes To Love.

Frangipanis – which are native to the Pacific Islands, Caribbean, South America, and Mexico – are actually quite easy to propagate. Just follow these three easy steps to take a frangipani cutting and replant, then sit back and watch the magic unfold.

How to take frangipani cuttings in Australia

1. Choose the tree you want to propagate

Consider which tree you would like to take a cutting from. Would you prefer white flowers, or is pink better suited to your garden aesthetic? Ensure the tree is established and always ask permission first if the tree doesn’t belong to you.

2. Pick a good time of year

The best time to take a cutting and propagate a frangipani tree is late spring to early summer.

3. Remove old wood

Choose a firm frangipani stem. Using sharp secateurs, make a cutting about 30–50cm long. The base of the frangipani cutting should be old wood, which is grey in colour.

4. Rest wounds

Remove the leaves and place frangipani cuttings somewhere dry, well-ventilated, and in full sun. Allow the wounds to heal. This takes a few weeks.

5. Plant

When the area behind the wound swells, insert frangipani cuttings, one per pot, into a fast-draining propagating mix. Water sparingly as the cuttings begin to take root.

When should frangipani cuttings be taken?

Although you can take frangipani cuttings at any time throughout the year, the optimal time is between late spring and early summer, just before the tree becomes covered in flowers. This is when your frangipani trees should be at their healthiest. Be sure to treat any diseases, like the common frangipani rust, before taking cuttings.

How long do frangipani cuttings take to root?

It typically takes at least a few weeks for a frangipani cutting to take root, depending on the climate. If your cuttings are in a warm and dry spot and have already been dried before planting, they should grow well and establish roots within a month of planting.

The post How to take a frangipani cutting in 5 easy steps appeared first on Homes To Love.

Are frangipani trees easy to grow?

Once established, frangipani trees require very little maintenance. Frangipani trees only require watering in spring and summer. It’s best to hold off watering during winter to prevent root rot. Frangipani trees thrive in a coastal environment as they love well-drained sandy soil and can tolerate the salty sea breeze and harsh summer sun.

You can check out our full guide to growing and caring for frangipani trees here.

Types of frangipani trees

• Common white frangipani – the original and the most popular variety.
• Pink frangipani – can vary from pale pink to pinky-orange. Choose your tree when in flower.
• Common petite pink frangipani – this dwarf frangipani is perfect for hedging and planting in pots.
• Tricolour (fruit salad) frangipani – if you can’t choose between yellow and pink, this one’s for you.
• Darwin blood red frangipani – a rich crimson colour sets this species apart.
• Singapore white frangipani – you will recognise this species if you’ve holidayed in Asia or other tropical destinations.

How to grow a frangipani tree from a cutting

1. Take frangipani cuttings in Australia

Frangipanis are quite easy to grow from a cutting. The ideal time of year to take a frangipani cutting and propagate a frangipani tree is late spring to early summer, but it can be done and planted up until autumn. All you need to do is cut off a stem or branch from an established tree, about 30cm – 50cm in length, and remove any leaves or flowers that are positioned on the lower end. You can also use a broken frangipani branch.

2. Allow the cutting to dry out

Allow the cutting to dry out completely before planting it in the ground or in a pot.

3. Allow the cutting to root

If you want to ensure the cutting will root, you can pop it in some coarse sand and water it well for about a week. Look for small, new leaves forming. Just note, that depending upon the climate, this can take up to four weeks.

4. Transplant the cutting

Choose a sunny spot and plant the cutting directly into the ground or a shallow pot.

Can you plant a frangipani cutting straight into the ground?

Yes, you can essentially plant your frangipani cutting straight into the ground, but not before drying it out. Choose a spot that receives full sun and ensure the soil is well-draining.

How long should plumeria cuttings dry before planting?

It’s best not to plant your frangipani cutting straight away, but to leave it to stand in an upright position for one to four weeks – or until the base of the stem has entirely dried out. You’ll know your cutting is ready to be planted when it begins to swell, a sign that the area is preparing to form roots.

Can you plant frangipani cuttings in pots?

Yes, frangipani cuttings can be planted in pots once they have dried out. Frangipani plants can survive for years in pots, however, to allow them to grow and not be root-bound, you will need to replant them in larger pots each year.

Can you root frangipani cutting in water?

While you can do it, it is best not to put frangipani cuttings in water as their roots can rot quite easily.

What is the best soil for frangipani cuttings?

Frangipanis prefer well-draining soil. If you are opting for a pot, choose a premium-grade potting mix and pair it with a terracotta pot, which is naturally porous. Together, they will help to prevent root rot and encourage drainage.

The post How to grow a frangipani tree from a cutting appeared first on Homes To Love.

“Trees have many benefits around the home including providing shade, blocking out unwanted views, creating homes for native birds, attracting bees and protecting sensitive plants that grow alongside them,” said Angie Thomas, Horticulture Consultant to Yates.

So whether you’re looking for some fast-growing shade trees in time for summer or an ornamental species to liven up a small garden space, here are 10 trees to plant in your backyard – no matter how large or small!

The best backyard trees for Australia

Crepe myrtle

Lagerstroemia

These hardy deciduous trees have attractive bark, colourful autumn foliage and stunning summer flowers. Dwarf crepe myrtles are available as well as varieties with striking burgundy foliage. Crepe Myrtle can be grown in the ground or in a pot.

Sun/Shade: Full sun
When to plant: Winter
How fast it grows: Typically takes 3-5 years until it flowers

Cherry blossom

Ornamental prunus

These magnificent trees have white or pink flowers that attract bees in spring and vibrant foliage in autumn. The ideal time for planting is during winter when they are dormant and leafless.

Sun/Shade: Full sun to partial shade, depending on the variety
When to plant: Late winter to early spring
How fast it grows: 60 to 120 cm per year

Ivory curl tree

Buckinghamia celsissima

In temperate areas, this Australian native evergreen tree will reach around eight metres high and taller in warmer climates. In summer, ivory curl trees are smothered in cream flowers that attract bees and nectar-feeding birds.

Sun/Shade: Full sun to partial shade
When to plant: Mid to late spring
How fast it grows: Moderate growth rate

Magnolia

Magnoliaceae

Magnolia varieties such as ‘Little Gem’ and ‘Teddy Bear’ have glossy green leaves with a striking rusty colour underneath and white flowers in summer. These are great for providing a dense screen or growing as a feature tree.

Growing to around five metres tall, deciduous magnolias display magnificent goblet-shaped flowers on bare stems during late winter and early spring. Plenty of gorgeous colours are available including white, pale pink, lilac, burgundy and yellow.

Sun/Shade: Full sun to light shade
When to plant: Spring
How fast it grows: Between 5 and 10 metres tall, depending on variety

Frangipani

Plumeria

Bringing a tropical feel to temperate and warm climate gardens, frangipanis are predominantly deciduous trees that have lush leaves and beautifully fragrant flowers in summer. They are ideally planted during late winter just before the new spring foliage emerges. Frangipanis are easy to grow from a cutting and will happily grow in a pot.

Sun/Shade: Full sun
When to plant: Late winter to spring
How fast it grows: 20cm annually

Japanese maple

Ideal for sheltered cool and temperate gardens, Japanese maples have glorious autumn foliage. Japanese maples can be planted at almost any time of the year, but the best bet is to plant them during winter while they are ‘hibernating’.

Sun/Shade: Full sun to partial shade
When to plant: Late autumn or winter
How fast it grows: 30 to 60 centimetres each year

Blueberry ash

Elaeocarpus reticulatus

A medium-sized Australian native rainforest tree, Blueberry Ash produces frilled white flowers in spring and then colourful, bird-attracting blueberries. This adaptable tree can be grown as a feature tree, used for screening or just in a large pot on a balcony.

Sun/Shade: Full sun to partial shade
When to plant: Late summer to early autumn
How fast it grows: 1 to 2 metres each year

Lilly pilly

Lilly pilly is a group of Australian native plants, which range from shrubs to trees, and boast lush foliage that can help create a great screen or shade. Most lilly pilly trees produce white, bee-attracting flowers in spring or summer, followed by edible berries that are loved by native birds, like parrots.

Sun/Shade: Full sun to partial shade
When to plant: Late autumn or early spring
How fast it grows: 0.5 to 2 meters per year

Purple glory tree

Tibouchina melastomataceae

Tibouchina trees are covered in intense purple, lilac or pink flowers in late summer making them a great choice to brighten up a dull garden. Angie Thomas, Horticulture Consultant to Yates, recommends planting these trees if you live in some of Australia’s warmer climates.

Sun/Shade: Full sun to partial shade
When to plant: Spring, after the frost has passed
How fast it grows: Moderate growth rate, up to 2 metres

What are the least messy trees in Australia?

Although some trees may produce beautiful blooms and blossoms, the very same ones can create the biggest mess (we’re looking at you, jacaranda). If you’re after a shady tree that doesn’t create a lot of mess or leaf litter, consider an evergreen variety, which will stay lush year-round (even through autumn). Some top examples include:

• Lilly pilly
• Magnolia
• Bay laurel
• Olive trees
• Citrus
• Blueberry ash

What is the best backyard climbing tree?

If you have keen little climbers in your family (and you’re up for some time spent supervising), you could try planting a mulberry, wattle, magnolia liliiflora, or a jacaranda tree, which all grow strong, sturdy branches perfect for exploring.

The post The 10 best backyard trees for Australian gardens of all sizes appeared first on Homes To Love.

How to grow bougainvillea

Bougainvilleas are trouble-free plants that offer maximum visual impact. Robust and adaptable, they love warmth and sunshine and can even tolerate periods of drought. Traditionally grown over pergolas, their luminous colour can also be enjoyed in hanging baskets and containers, if growing the dwarf varieties. It’s just a matter of pruning them to shape two or three times a year.

If you’re looking to grow bougainvillea in your own backyard, here’s what you’ll need to do:

1. Choose a sunny spot

Bougainvilleas thrive in full sun, and once established in the ground, need little to no watering. Climbing varieties will need vertical support, such as a sturdy trellis or a pergola, so consider this when choosing the new home of your bougainvillea.

2. Prepare the soil

Well-draining soil is essential for a happy bougainvillea, particularly sandy or loamy soil. Prior to planting, consider using a soil improver. If planting in a pot, choose a pot with drainage and use a mix of peat moss, sand and compost, or a premium potting mix.

3. Dig a large hole

Dig a hole as deep as the roots and twice as wide. Before handling bougainvillea, put some gardening gloves on to protect yourself from its thorns. After carefully removing the plant from its pot, place it into the hole and fill with soil.

4. Water thoroughly

Once your bougainvillea has been planted, give it plenty of water.

How to grow bougainvilleas in pots

Bougainvilleas prefer a frost-free climate, although established plants survive occasional frosts. Give them a sunny, sheltered courtyard or a veranda, or train them against a hot and sunny wall. Freely draining soil is essential, so if planting in pots use terracotta ones rather than plastic. More failures are from growing bougainvilleas in containers in cold, wet soil than any other reason.

Surprisingly, bougainvillea roots are easily damaged. Before planting, work plenty of well-rotted compost, but not manure, into thoroughly loosened soil. Tease congested roots out very gently by hand. Finally, make sure new plants are planted no deeper than they were in their pot because planting too deeply encourages decay.

How do you care for bougainvilleas in Australia?

Fortunately for those of us living in Australia, bougainvilleas perform best in full, all-day sun, but most do well with half a day’s sunshine. Feed once in spring and once in summer, using a hibiscus or rose fertiliser or one formulated for flowers and fruit in order to provide phosphorous and potassium.

The best formulas also provide iron, magnesium and micro-nutrients. Avoid manures and nitrogen-rich fertilisers as they discourage flowering. Routinely remove ‘water shoots’, the fat, soft stems that are useless for training and shaping.

Bougainvilleas flower on new growth, generally in cycles 4–6 weeks long, so prune to shape after a flowering cycle, two or three times a year.

Does bougainvillea flower all year round?

Bougainvilleas flower for most of the year. In tropical and sub-tropical climates, they flower year round while in cooler climates they’ll flower from spring through to late summer.

What is the best place to plant a bougainvillea?

Bougainvilleas are best planted in full sun with well-draining soil. Climbing varieties are best planted along a wall, beneath an archway or beside a pergola, while dwarf varieties are great for pots or hanging baskets.

Types of bougainvillea

Bougainvilleas have been grown and hybridised for so many years that botanists disagree on how many species exist but there are thought to be at least 250 different varieties nowadays. It seems that most of today’s varieties have three ancestral species; Bougainvillea glabra, B. peruviana and B. spectabilis. Modern bougainvilleas are known simply as Bougainvillea Hybrids or by their cultivar names. Some of the most popular cultivars include:

• Nonya
• Solar Flare
• Little Guy
• Golden Ice
• Majik
• Arora
• Temple Fire
• Miss Alice
• Singapore Pink

For instant impact, many cultivars can be bought as trained standards such as the weeping form of ‘Krishna’. Variegated forms and white-flowered cultivars, such as ‘Arora’, can be used to brighten semi-shaded positions.

Compact cultivars like ‘Little Guy’, a bud sport of the old favourite ‘Temple Fire’, make brilliant ground covers for a hot, dry, sunny spot. The small-growing hybrid Bambino series has also obtained a well-earned reputation as a high-quality plant, giving bougainvilleas a new place in small gardens.

Bambinos have strong, clear colours and flower repeatedly. If there is one uniting quality of Bambinos, it is their suitability for container culture and small gardens, as they generally only reach 1.5–2 metres tall.

Larger cultivars can be trained into hedges for a secure barrier, windbreak or screen. As a flowering hedge, bougainvilleas have no equal for sheer flower power. Better still, bougainvilleas tolerate salt-laden winds, making them ideal for planting in exposed coastal gardens.

Is there a thornless variety of bougainvillea?

Yes, there is a thornless variety of bougainvillea known as “Miss Alice” which is prized for its brilliant white clusters of flowers and semi-dwarf size, reaching a mature height of 2 to 3 feet tall. “Singapore Pink,” a sister variety of “Miss Alice,” is semi-thornless, presenting pale pink blooms while other dwarf varieties offer smaller thorns.

Propagating tips for bougainvilleas

Bougainvillea cuttings root readily when they are taken from ripe wood, which feels firm and looks greyish-brown. Cuttings strike all year round in the tropics, rooting in about four weeks. In southern Australia, cuttings are best taken in summer.

Cuttings should be about the length and thickness of a pencil. Hormone rooting powder isn’t necessary, just insert the cuttings two-thirds of their length into washed river sand. Water sparingly and watch them grow.

The post How to grow and care for bougainvilleas appeared first on Homes To Love.

How to grow hydrangea

1. Choose a location

Choose a spot that is partially shaded or receives morning sun, rather than harsh afternoon sun. Ensure the soil is well-draining.

2. Enrich the soil

Improve the soil by adding compost or organic matter, or a specialised soil improver and fertiliser.

3. Place your hydrangea

Dig a hole twice as wide, but the same depth as the root ball, gently tease out the roots if needed and place your hydrangea plant in. Then, backfill.

4. Water

Water your hydrangea well in the early stages after planting, ensuring the soil is kept moist. Consider applying mulch around the base, which will help retain the moisture.

When to plant hydrangea?

The best time to plant hydrangea in Australia is during the cooler months, between March and August. This gives the roots plenty of time to establish before summer’s hot weather, which is when the plants typically bloom.

What type of climate does hydrangea need to survive?

Hydrangeas prefer temperate climates, with mild winters and summer months that aren’t too dry. In Australia, hydrangea does well in New South Wales, Tasmania, and Victoria.

How much sun does hydrangea need?

Most hydrangeas prefer dappled light and partial shade and require protection from harsh, full sunlight. However, how much sun a hydrangea needs depends upon the variety. For example, some varieties such as Oakleaf and Bigleaf can tolerate more shade, whereas others, like Paniculata, can take more sun.

How often should hydrangea be watered?

Hydrangeas need regular watering, especially during hot, dry weather. Just after planting and during their first growing season, it’s important to water your hydrangeas well to encourage a strong root system. After the first growing season, you should water your hydrangeas when the top inch of soil feels dry, or deeply twice a week in spring and summer. Hydrangeas in pots should be watered regularly so the soil stays moist – however, it’s important to avoid overwatering, which can cause the roots to die.

What type of soil should I use?

Like all plants, it’s important to start from the ground up. Investing in the right soil for your garden will ensure optimal growing conditions for your hydrangeas all year round.

“Before you plant hydrangeas in your garden, make sure you give your soil a little bit of love to ensure the right nutrients are available for the plants to thrive,” says Narelle. “Whether you decide to create a new garden bed for your hydrangeas or just want to improve the current soil conditions, it is important to add a garden soil that encourages stronger root development, keeping your plant healthy in its new environment,” she explains.

Hydrangeas prefer rich, moist, well-drained soil. The pH of the soil actually affects the colour of the flower, but more on this below.

When will it bloom?

Once established, hydrangeas have quite a long blooming season that lasts from late spring right through to early autumn, peaking between November and February.

Growing hydrangeas in pots

While hydrangeas prefer to live in a garden bed, they can also be grown in pots and containers quite happily. If you choose to grow your hydrangeas in pots, it’s important to ensure they receive the right care to help get the most out of your plant.

“For best results, position them in an area with some afternoon shade; make sure they are planted in a specialised potting mix, such as Osmocote Premium Plus Potting Mix which has the Australian Standard Red Tick for Premium Potting Mix meaning it has enough nutrients to feed your plants for the months to come,” Narelle recommends.

Can you grow hydrangea indoors? 

You may be surprised to learn that hydrangeas can, in fact, be grown indoors, however, their favourite place is in the ground. Growing a hydrangea indoors involves ensuring the same optimal conditions as it requires in a pot, and then some. Your hydrangea should receive bright, indirect light, be watered frequently (but be careful not to overwater), and planted in an adequately sized pot that will allow its root system to establish (at least 45 centimetres wide).

Common mistakes to avoid when growing hydrangea

To give your hydrangeas the best chance of thriving, there are some common mistakes you should avoid, including:

• Planting in the wrong type of soil, or infertile soil, can stunt growth.
• Choosing a location that receives too much sun can burn or wilt the plant.
• Overwatering, which causes root rot.
• Planting your hydrangeas too close together can cause overcrowding, leading to improper formation. Likewise, planting a hydrangea too close to an existing tree can mean the roots compete.

How to grow hydrangeas from cuttings

The best time to take a hydrangea cutting in Australia is once the plant has finished blooming. This often occurs around late summer. To give your cutting the best chance of survival, wait until early morning or late evening when the weather is cooler. Make sure you select a stem that is healthy and disease- and pest-free.

To take a cutting, first find a six-inch stem that has several leaves attached. Using a pair of sharp pruning shears, make a clean cut just below a leaf node (the point where a leaf attaches to a stem). Then, remove any flowers or buds, as well as any leaves on the lower two-thirds of the stem.

Dip the bottom of the stem in a rooting hormone, and place in a small pot with moist, well-draining soil. Cover the cutting with a plastic bag to create a humid environment and place it in bright but indirect light. After a few weeks, gently tug on the stem to see whether it has rooted. Once it has, remove the plastic and transplant the stem into a larger pot or in your garden.

How to change the colour of hydrangeas

Hydrangeas come in a wide range of varietals, so selecting specific colours might seem like a challenging task. Luckily, it’s actually possible to change the colour of your hydrangea flowers yourself with a little clever gardening know-how. “While white hydrangeas are usually quite stable in their colouring, the pink and blue varieties can be deepened simply by changing the pH of your soil,” explains Narelle.

“If a deeper pink is what you’re looking for, add garden lime to the soil to make it more alkaline so that the pH level is above 7,” she adds. “For a darker blue, you’ll want to add compost or coffee grounds to increase the acidity of the soil.”

When should you prune hydrangeas?

Pruning hydrangeas is vital. Knowing when is and isn’t the right time to prune can make a world of difference for your plant’s health.

“In winter, prune hydrangeas to a pair of plump buds low down on stems but remember not to cut back stems that have not yet flowered,” says Narelle. “As an added bonus, these prunings can be propagated.”

How do you keep hydrangeas blooming?

Feeding your hydrangeas the right nutrients will ensure your plants are in perfect health for the seasons ahead.

“Like any plant, it is important to feed your hydrangeas with a specialised fertiliser like Osmocote’s All Purpose Controlled Release Fertiliser, which will give them the nutrients they need for healthy and sustained growth,” says Narelle.

In Australia, it’s best to fertilise your hydrangeas in March and April, and then again in August, September, and October.

The post How to grow and care for hydrangeas in Australia appeared first on Homes To Love.